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[King Glide]

Not to be mean but riding a Honda is like kissing your sister, it feels good till someone see's you and I just can't stand all the jumpsuits with the nicknames Sparky and Babs embroidered on them that Honda riders wear.
Why would you ride that when you have a Harley in the garage.

[Trapperdog]

If all  you want is 110 at the rear just do the exhaust, mild cams , and a tuner.  Most of us have been getting around that without head work or comp increase. Never had a problem with getting black listed anywhere with just those parts, but I've heard others have.

[cptdenny]

If all  you want is 110 at the rear just do the exhaust, mild cams , and a tuner.  Most of us have been getting around that without head work or comp increase. Never had a problem with getting black listed anywhere with just those parts, but I've heard others have.

I'm told by my service dept that those mods you mentioned would only get me about 102 HP at the rear wheel.

I had a '09 FXDC that I had modded to a 103" Stage lll, it was a BLAST.  Then I got last April a modded out 103" Stage ll, I often wondered how cool it would have been if the heads were polished and ported as well.

So I figured since the service dept was already in the engine I might as well get the most done, while saving some coin.  If I had to pay all of it out of pocket from scratch, I'd go with your suggestion.

Look at it this way, I may have something to report after it's all said and done.

[cptdenny]

Not to be mean but riding a Honda is like kissing your sister, it feels good till someone see's you and I just can't stand all the jumpsuits with the nicknames Sparky and Babs embroidered on them that Honda riders wear.
Why would you ride that when you have a Harley in the garage.

I never wore those silly costumes.  As to why I would ride a Wing when I have a HD in the garage, look no further than my wife.  She's in love with Wings, but I'm still working on her and she's slowly coming around.  The more I can make the RGU feel as comfortable as a Wing, the more she'll be accepting.  When mama's happy, then spending isn't an issue.

[Thundercloud]

With the right guy tuning you should be able get close to that with the stock set up with just exhaust and tuner mods.

I have the same bike as you in Rio Red. I have a stock 110 with V&H Power Duals, with the high output mufflers and a Master Tuner tuned by the Master tuner himself, Skip from Skip's Speed and Custom in Winchester, VA.

I am pushing 106hp with 124ftlbs of Torque at the rear wheel. For a lot less than it is going to cost you for the possibility of 4 more HP that you will never be able to tell you have in the seat of your pants.

Just to clarify, not claiming Skip has anything to do with Master Tuner as a company, just saying he is the best there is in tweeking Harleys. At least anywhere in my neck of the woods anyway!!!

[grc]

Not to be mean but riding a Honda is like kissing your sister, it feels good till someone see's you and I just can't stand all the jumpsuits with the nicknames Sparky and Babs embroidered on them that Honda riders wear.
Why would you ride that when you have a Harley in the garage.

So when a Honda or BMW rider wears neat, clean, and functional attire it's not a good thing, but when a bunch of poser's haul out the wife beater's, greasy jeans and jackets, do rags, and fingerless gloves to pretend to be "bad" on the weekend, that's good?  How about if we all buy Evel Knievel jumpsuits and pretend to be canyon jumping daredevils.  You go first.


Jerry

[Ironhorse]

How did we get onto rider clothing.......?

I don't know a whole lot about anything, but I do know that rider clothing usually comes under the following.

Village People (Harley - half-helmet)
Power Ranger (Sport Bike - full face)
Cordura / Nylon and Velcro (GoldWing - 3/4)
Euro-Sport (Combo of all of the above - modular)

Harley riders all want pins for their vest, and GoldWing riders want patches. Sport bike riders wear helmets with graphics, Harley riders wear helmets with stickers, GoldWing riders have ID, contact and medical information in viewable pockets on their sleeve, BMW enduro-tour riders have passport and international IDs and licenses in their pockets.

Sure you will find a mix and match and the obvious gaffes (white sneakers), but by and large everyone fits into one or some of the above catagories. So when folks make fun on the "Power Rangers", you can bet they are dissing the "Village People".

At times like that I try and remember that for every finger I point, comment I make or whatever, there are at least 10 coming back at me.

[JCZ]

How did we get onto rider clothing.......?

I'm not sure.  But since I have a hard time keeping up with the latest whatever, anyway..........just to be on the safe side..............I'll be riding to the MITM GTG nakid!

[miker]

Lawdy!   

 

[Ironhorse]

I'm not sure.  But since I have a hard time keeping up with the latest whatever, anyway..........just to be on the safe side..............I'll be riding to the MITM GTG nakid!

I don't believe that for one moment JC. You will at least have your camera dangling around your neck,.....LOL

[cptdenny]

 Now that hijacking my thread is complete with cross-dressing.  Let's get back to WHY I BROKE DOWN IN THE FIRST PLACE?

What would cause the exhaust valve not to seat properly therefore causing the intake valve to collide with it, breaking off.  Then with the loose intake valve slamming into and taking out the spark plug electrode and then gouging the piston face?

Could it be bad fuel, manufactures defect, timing, heat or carbon build up? 
I just don't want a repeat of this.

Another question, why the concern about how much I'm doing in engine mods?  What's wrong with polish & ported heads, new heavy duty pistons and a new 58 mm throttle body?  Along with the less costly mods some of you are recommending I do instead?

I'm not just interested in horse power & torque but longevity and integrity as well.

[Keats]

  Let's get back to WHY I BROKE DOWN IN THE FIRST PLACE?

What would cause the exhaust valve not to seat properly therefore causing the intake valve to collide with it, breaking off.  Then with the loose intake valve slamming into and taking out the spark plug electrode and then gouging the piston face?

Could it be bad fuel, manufactures defect, timing, heat or carbon build up? 
I just don't want a repeat of this.

Another question, why the concern about how much I'm doing in engine mods?  What's wrong with polish & ported heads, new heavy duty pistons and a new 58 mm throttle body?  Along with the less costly mods some of you are recommending I do instead?

I'm not just interested in horse power & torque but longevity and integrity as well.

with only 950 on the clock it is not bad fuel, timing, heat or carbon build up.

it is a manufacture defect, like a valve guide, lifter or valve spring.

I have done most of what you are planning (minus 58mm TB) and so far it has not payed off very well.
I did get more power, but that to wears off pretty fast once you get use to it.
"Geezers" racing Lazy boys is actually pretty funny though.
you will need a "Tuner" and maybe dyno time?
You will have spent over $2K and still have done nothing for the bottom end and have done very little or nothing to increase reliability.
If you ride distance, this will work against you.
Even if your dealer will support you, things change all of the time.
My dealer, the GM, and service writer and 90% of the techs have all changed, so they are not inclined to believe me when I remind them how "we" decided how to proceed and what was assured to me at that time.

Down time was awefull, shipping parts out and waiting for their return and correcting mistakes.
bike was down November to May one year.
Even in my area "snowbelt" 6 months was a long time.

[cptdenny]

Thank you Keats.  Yes a tuner and dyno time are also being done.

[JCZ]

Now that hijacking my thread is complete with cross-dressing.  Let's get back to WHY I BROKE DOWN IN THE FIRST PLACE?

What would cause the exhaust valve not to seat properly therefore causing the intake valve to collide with it, breaking off.  Then with the loose intake valve slamming into and taking out the spark plug electrode and then gouging the piston face?

Could it be bad fuel, manufactures defect, timing, heat or carbon build up? 
I just don't want a repeat of this.

Another question, why the concern about how much I'm doing in engine mods?  What's wrong with polish & ported heads, new heavy duty pistons and a new 58 mm throttle body?  Along with the less costly mods some of you are recommending I do instead?

I'm not just interested in horse power & torque but longevity and integrity as well.

Keats already answered the first part of your questions and I'd have to agree with him.  

In regards to the bold faced type in your questions.....for me anyway.....it's a two fold answer.

Keep in mind that the weak link of hte 110" is the thing that costs the most to repair, is the flywheels.  Taking that into consideration coupled with trying to keep our motors covered by the warranty (and extended warranty down the road) we aren't willing to push the mod envelope to the point where there's no way they'll warranty the repairs (again, keeping in mind how much the lower end repairs are $$$$ $$$$) and it now comes out of your pocket.

Along with those considerations, for many of us it's not our first rodeo.  For years I spent bucket loads of money for just a few more HP or a few more TQ numbers.  I also learned (school of hard knocks, over and over) that when you start bumping compression generally that's when you start having the seeps, weeps and leaks as well as long term reliability goes down hill real fast.

All things considered for many of us that have run the hot rod gauntlet for years, we just want a well performing bike but comfort and reliabilty is now equally important.  

This is all just my opinion and I don't speak for anybody else.  However, it does come from experience as my wife's 09 Street Glide has had the motor replaced under warranty from the MoCo at 30,000 miles and my 10 Screamin Eagle Street Glide had a complete motor rebuild (flywheels on up) under warranty from the MoCo at less than 30,000 miles........both bikes the flywheels went south.  And that was without any headwork!  It's just a huge roll of the dice that most of us are old enough and experienced to know the odds just aren't in our favor going beyond what has become the norm here.

[Rooster]

Well said JC. It just seems with these new motors if you don't take care of the bottom end you will always be wondering if when the wheels will shift. To bad we can't just get a new bike with the motor in pieces then we can just fix it right the first time and ride on since the Moco won't do it right in the first place.