Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

The 777 for a fact is a "bolt-in" cam, as far as being used under OE springs, and it ends there, as it WILL be sluggish, without the proper compression ratio.
Your current cr is too low for it, but with a simple re-surface of the heads, you'd experience a HUGE gain.
Scott

[cvo1717]

How much do i have yo mill off and how much comp do i need to make the cam work?What numbers do you think i can see?
THanks Mike

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

You really do not want to arbitrarily remove "X" from the head.
You need to cc the combustion chamber volume, once void of carbon, and remove material as needed at that point.
Check twice, cut once, and creep up to the desired volume.
Along with that, the displaced cc's of the cylinder head gasket being used, is factored into the equation, and lastly, how far the piston sits below the cylinder deck, at TDC, needs to be addressed/factored as well.
Scott

[petewerner]

I may have missed it, but why the 115 hp or 125 hp or whatever it was? It seems like alot of people build their motors for a number, instead of perhaps just finding an designed/engineered to work in conjunction with each other. With fuel injection, computers, throttle bodies, etc., it is much more complex than a few years back when there was no map to change either... There are such systems and multiple manufactures, including but not limited to Harley Screamin Eagle.
With this approach, there is alot of  hp that can be added to a bike and it will  run just like stock, only a ton faster, who cares what a guy in a room with  a dyno can squeeze out for peak numbers, it is how friggin hard can this thing pull, and if u feel like saying wow each time u twist the grip, then that is the right number for u and the bike.
I wasted alot of money searching for the perfect combo for whatever bike I had, this time I went for a known product, used by many and proven reliabilty and performance made for the best choice 4 me. Now it performs like stock, no little hick-up here or there, just one heck of alot faster! Puts a smile on my face, and no  dyno room running the crap outta my bike!!  

[LC110]

You may want to look into the T-Man 600 SuperMax cams.
Nice cam for a non bagger IMO.http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=65029.0

[cvo1717]

So if you have to bump the comp and play with the heads its not a "bolt in cam".Looks like going to bite the bullit and change pistions tb port heads and whatever else i have to do.I am going to call Andrew from Rosas Cycle (huntington. N Y)and do whatever he says is best for the 110.
Mike

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

He'll take care of you, and tell him that Joe from Joe's Cycle, and I said hello.
Next time he's @ Joe's, to have him bring some of that chow from that old Italian Deli.....
Glad we were of help answering your questions.
Scott

[cvo1717]

Talked to Andrew he said a bolt in cam on a 110 is wast of time.You will see minimal gains and just move the power over.The way to go he explained to me have him do the head work CP 10:5:1 pistion 51 mm TB  new injectors adj pushrods tw-408 or something close depending on how I ride D&D Fatcat dyno tune .He said I will be very happy with the results.Thanks again for all your help and next time I talk to him I tell him what you said Joe
Mike

[HD Street Performance]

Here is the dyno I referenced and this is a little 103" with Street Pro heads 9.9/1 compression and a WOOD TW5-6. Corrected to SAE.
Andy knows the grind well.  I have used it in a 110 with just a .030 milled heads many times successfully.

[cvo1717]

Those are nice numbers for a 103 .After talking to andrew I understand more about what I want and how to get it. He is one of the best tuners that are close to where I live.I will ask him about the cam you used also.Since i am going to let him do the work I want to follow what he suggests .
thanks again Mike

[hotroadking]

Heard the same from Mike R at Biketoberfest

Heads need to be milled and cylinders shaved some to get the
piston to pop up enough so you can get that valuable compression

throttle body to get enough air in then cams and you can make
the power you want.  Otherwise a bolt in and not much
can be expected.

My concern then is if you start making 120+ and use it
like it's intended for it's going to be hard on the bottom end

So wouldn't you need to look at timken bearing on the crank
and possibly having the flywheels done at darkhorse to be safe
you are not riding a grenade waiting to go off.

by that time, with all the time, money, parts, work
and tuning wouldn't you be better off to drop the 120R in
and put the 110 in the box for when you want to trade the
bike later.  Pull the 120R out and put the 110 back in
get new bike, swap in 120r

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

Talked to Andrew he said a bolt in cam on a 110 is wast of time.You will see minimal gains and just move the power over.The way to go he explained to me have him do the head work CP 10:5:1 pistion 51 mm TB  new injectors adj pushrods tw-408 or something close depending on how I ride D&D Fatcat dyno tune .He said I will be very happy with the results.Thanks again for all your help and next time I talk to him I tell him what you said Joe
Mike

My name is Scott, owner of www.hillsidecycle.com, as my posts are always signed, and Joe, is the owner of www.joescyclerepair.com.
Andrew Rosamiglia comes up to visit Joe's facility, several times a year.
Scott

[cvo1717]

i AM SORRY NOW i GOT IT.

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

Heard the same from Mike R at Biketoberfest

Heads need to be milled and cylinders shaved some to get the
piston to pop up enough so you can get that valuable compression

throttle body to get enough air in then cams and you can make
the power you want.  Otherwise a bolt in and not much
can be expected.

My concern then is if you start making 120+ and use it
like it's intended for it's going to be hard on the bottom end

So wouldn't you need to look at timken bearing on the crank
and possibly having the flywheels done at darkhorse to be safe
you are not riding a grenade waiting to go off.

by that time, with all the time, money, parts, work
and tuning wouldn't you be better off to drop the 120R in
and put the 110 in the box for when you want to trade the
bike later.  Pull the 120R out and put the 110 back in
get new bike, swap in 120r

Still need a t/body, roller rockers by rights, and the 120R's are about .7 point shy of compression to optimize their full potential with 266 cam, along with some sort of clutch set-up, and the cost of filter/fluids/plugs/gaskets, and the remove/replace labor.
Scott

[FLSTFI Dave]

Here is the dyno I referenced and this is a little 103" with Street Pro heads 9.9/1 compression and a WOOD TW5-6. Corrected to SAE.
Andy knows the grind well.  I have used it in a 110 with just a .030 milled heads many times successfully.

What would the torque curve and HP look like then with that cam in a 110?

What head mods and came would you recommend for a 110 in a Road glide that would see 13000 ~ 15000 miles a year.  Bike is ridden solo, with a chopped tour pack at most.  When on the interstate I run about 2800 to 3000 rpm, on secondary roads and hwys 2400 rpm or more.