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[Z10]

@guppytrash:  Looks like the roller on the lower RH lifter stopped rolling.

Thanks everyone for your reply. Decided I'm not go to ride it again until I eliminate the noise. Was on JIMS site today looking at their lifters and adjustable pushrods. Why go with HD parts only to change them out again at 20k miles? I had two other independent wrenches listen to the bike over the weeked. Both agreed it was lifters and recommended changing them out and installing adjustable pushrods.  If the noise is still present, then remvoe the tank and pull the rocker boxes. I could tell the Wilmington dealer did in fact open the cam cavity. New clamp on front header pipe, oil residue on the frame below the cam cover. Since I helped a friend change the lifters out on a Evo the same way (take bolt cutters to the old push rods) a few years back I'm thinking of doing this myself.

Question: The following note is in the Jims catalog just below the adjustable push rods I'm looking at:

NOTE: When using Twin Cam® Pushrod set No.2416 you will need to use (4) H-D® No.17938-83 lower pushrod covers
and (4) H-D® No.17634-99 pushrod spring cover keepers.

What part number covers come on our motors? Will our factory covers work with the Jim 2416 pushrods?

Thanks again!

[HD Street Performance]

You could be better served to look elsewhere. There are many decent lifters to choose from. The Jims is not on the list IMHO. If it is a lifter the next logical question is what about metal that has traveled due to the damage and how bad is the cam lobe(s) hurt?

[Z10]

@Deweysheads: Planning on inspecting the cam lobes when I get the lifters out.  I have a freind who thinks he can get a 5MM borescope for a day or two. Lifter recommendations? I'm open to suggestions.  Definitley not going with anything that has a bar and shield on the box. 

[aclass]

Subscribed.   wishing you luck and interested to see what lifters you choose.

[grc]

Deweysheads (Don) beat me to it.  Based on all the negative feedback on the forums, I don't think Jim's is an improvement over what you currently have.  H-D, Screamin' Eagle, and Jims have all had a lot of failures recently.

About the only brand I haven't heard much negative feedback on is S&S.  Perhaps those who use S&S, Woods, Fueling, or other brands can enlighten us on the reliability of those choices.


Jerry

[sadunbar]

Deweysheads (Don) beat me to it.  Based on all the negative feedback on the forums, I don't think Jim's is an improvement over what you currently have.  H-D, Screamin' Eagle, and Jims have all had a lot of failures recently.

About the only brand I haven't heard much negative feedback on is S&S.  Perhaps those who use S&S, Woods, Fueling, or other brands can enlighten us on the reliability of those choices.


Jerry

Personally, I would agree with the highlighted list - in that order...

[Z10]

Just visited sites that carry Feuling, Woods, S&S and Hq Black Ops (ProTwin.com)  Saw the Sept 2011 thread guppytrash started on his ticking problem. Someone in that thread (screen name escapes me) spoke highly of the Black Ops lifters. Going to call ProTwin tomorrow.  Jims is no longer a option.

[cvobiker]

@guppytrash:  Looks like the roller on the lower RH lifter stopped rolling.

Thanks everyone for your reply. Decided I'm not go to ride it again until I eliminate the noise. Was on JIMS site today looking at their lifters and adjustable pushrods. Why go with HD parts only to change them out again at 20k miles? I had two other independent wrenches listen to the bike over the weeked. Both agreed it was lifters and recommended changing them out and installing adjustable pushrods.  If the noise is still present, then remvoe the tank and pull the rocker boxes. I could tell the Wilmington dealer did in fact open the cam cavity. New clamp on front header pipe, oil residue on the frame below the cam cover. Since I helped a friend change the lifters out on a Evo the same way (take bolt cutters to the old push rods) a few years back I'm thinking of doing this myself.

Question: The following note is in the Jims catalog just below the adjustable push rods I'm looking at:

NOTE: When using Twin Cam® Pushrod set No.2416 you will need to use (4) H-D® No.17938-83 lower pushrod covers
and (4) H-D® No.17634-99 pushrod spring cover keepers.

What part number covers come on our motors? Will our factory covers work with the Jim 2416 pushrods?

Thanks again!

I'd stay a mile away from anything that say's Jim's on it..   Oh.. i take that back... i'd stay 10 miles away...  Fueling would be much  better choice or even the Woods..  I installed a set of Black Ops in my 131 before i found run-out crank problems.. they are very quiet but i only had 200 or so miles on em...  I plan to keep them in the motor once i get it rebuilt, if i ever do...  Im dealing with the Jim's proprietary dilemma right now and it aint no fun, the big reason i say stay as far away from anything Jim's    

[HD Street Performance]

Well sorry to be the contrarian but I would not use any Topline Hylift lifter or derivatives reboxed by other companies. I don't want to get into a mud match so won't get into that but I will tell you my choices.
Wood, Gaterman GP1023, S&S, CompCams 875-1 / Delphi (some are Federal Mogul {Mexico} with the circlip rather than the crimped limiter clip).
In that order

[guppytrash]

I went with S&S lifters based on some good advice from users here on this site. 
 

[Lever]

i went with s&s also

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

We never see any issues with S&S lifters.
Scott

[Rooster]

I broke in my Jim's motor with their lifters then switched out to HD lifters and I can tell you the Jim's are noisy and I don't trust them.

[DavidB]

S&S is all I run.

[Z10]

Worked honey do list all weekend.  Didn't get around to tearing into the bike.  It's next weekends project. Will post pics of hardware.

Talked to a friend who's a pretty good wrench.  He knows someone who had a noisey top end and found excessive lateral rocker arm movement.  If I heard him correctly he said .025. He said the guy shimmed his rocker arms using the same shims that were used on either pans or shovelheads. Rocker arm shaft diameter is supposed to be the same. You have to be sure you put the shim on the side that isn't loaded when actuated.  Haven't done any forum searches on this subject yet.