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[Z10]

http://www.v-twinforum.com/forums/twin-cam-engine-mods/160577-shimming-rocker-arms.html

[HD Street Performance]

It is not the root cause. Most come new at .0010-.0012. Tighten them up and it will give the warm and fuzzies but IME the noise is still there hot.

[Z10]

Finally got around to working on the bike yesterday.  Both rocker box covers are off, rear rocker arms, pushrods tubes, push rods and lifters removed.  Observations: Exhaust pushrod is a lot darker in color than intake. Intake is silver, exhaust looks like it was anodized black. When looking through oiling passage I was able to see light through the intake push road tube.  Could not see through the darker exhaust rod. Blew through it with a rag at the other end and it cleared out (dark oil on the rag.) Roller on the lifters don't look bad at all. However when I grab the roller and move it laterally I get enough movement to view the needlebearings.  Going back in the garage in about an hour to do the front cylinder.  Will post pics when I'm done.

Spent the better part of the morning making a parts list. Unless I find something drastically different on the fronth cylinder, it looks like I'm staying with the stock cam. Going with S&S lifters and standard adjustable pushrod. Was thinking about going with their roller rockers as well. But at $500 for the arms and shafts I'm debating wherther it's worth it. Thoughts.

[sadunbar]

Finally got around to working on the bike yesterday.  Both rocker box covers are off, rear rocker arms, pushrods tubes, push rods and lifters removed.  Observations: Exhaust pushrod is a lot darker in color than intake. Instake is silver, exhaust looks like it was anodized black. When looking through oiling passage I was able to see light through the intake push road tube.  Could not see through the darker exhaust rod. Blew through it with a rag at the other end and it cleared out (dark oil on the rag.) Roller on the lifters don't look bad at all. However when I grab the roller and move it laterally I get enough movement to view the needlebearings.  Going back in the garage in about an hour to do the front cylinder.  Will post pics when I'm done.

Spent the better part of the morning making a parts list. Unless I find something drastically different on the fronth cylinder, it looks like I'm staying with the stock cam. Going with S&S lifters and standard adjustable pushrod. Was thinking about going with their roller rockers as well. But at $500 for the arms and shafts I'm debating wherther it's worth it. Thoughts.

The coloring you noted of the pushrods is normal.  They're supposed to be just as you described. 

S&S is a good lifter choice...  I prefer SE tapered adjustable pushrods.  They lessen the chance of noise caused by pushrods rubbing the pushrod tubes...

[Z10]

Haven't found a smoking gun. Front cylinder lifters look like rear. Roller surface looks great. Oil passage for intake pushrod tube doesn't appear to have a visual trace of oil in it. Like the rear cylinder, had to blow through front cylinder pushrod tube in order to see through it. Oil was obstructing view. Blew through both intake tubes with a white rag covering the other end. Didn't see a trace of oil on the rag.

Decided to open up the cam cavity to inspect thhe hardware myself (this weekends project.) At the minimum I'm installing a higher flow oil pump and hydraulic cam chain tensioner. Considering going with the Feuling pump.  Has anyone used the Fueling pump with the HD hyd cam chain tensioner/cam plate setup?  Still doing research on the othe cam chain tensioners. 

[VANAMAL]

Fueling sells the kit with pump,plate,lifters and sometimes cams. You could also put in the gear drive to eliminate any future worry. The tapered se adj pushrods are real nice too.all this with the new inner and outer bearings and your set. Put in my 05seeg and it sounds like a sewing machine. Easy to do with a manual,a few tools and gaskets. The worst part is pulling off the pipes

[LovemyCVOgirl]

I love it when you guy's talk about lifter's, cam's and cavities(?).     

[Z10]

Boy am I pissed! Both at me and the Wilmington HD shop.  I should have caught this before I began dismantling the motor.  I checked all the heat shields but not the last clamp that secures the header pipe to the tranny bracket. Following YouTube link shows what I found: 

Also found the lower front exhaust flange nut loose.  After listening again to the earlier video of the noise, I feel a little better. I'm not convinced the loose clamp was the culprit. Noise is to rhythmic.  I think the noise would be more erratic if it was the clamp. I still should have caught it.

Never pulled just a front pipe down before. Is there enough room between the engine and frame for the pipe to slide forward without having to remove the entire exhaust? Since it was recently removed I was hoping it would slide out rather easily. As usual....no such luck.

[aclass]

Boy am I pissed! Both at me and the Wilmington HD shop.  I should have caught this before I began dismantling the motor.  I checked all the heat shields but not the last clamp that secures the header pipe to the tranny bracket. Following YouTube link shows what I found: 

Also found the lower front exhaust flange nut loose.  After listening again to the earlier video of the noise, I feel a little better. I'm not convinced the loose clamp was the culprit. Noise is to rhythmic.  I think the noise would be more erratic if it was the clamp. I still should have caught it.

Never pulled just a front pipe down before. Is there enough room between the engine and frame for the pipe to slide forward without having to remove the entire exhaust? Since it was recently removed I was hoping it would slide out rather easily. As usual....no such luck.

Chicken one day,  feathers the next...     Dont beat yourself up too bad Z10,  I can happen to anybody.

[Z10]

Front pipe came out after loosening rear header pipe exhaust flange nuts and the two bolts supporting the right tailpipe.  Wilmington dealer forgot to install a nut on the bolt that supports the rear header pipe behind the rear cylinder. Bolt was there, no nut on it. Also found the rear upper heatshield clamp loose.

Here is a "great" looking tensioner shoe (HD technicians words.)  Tech told me not to worry about it for another 25k miles.  Bike currently has 25k miles on it. Glad I pressed ahead even after finding the loose hardware. Will be out of town the rest of the week. Next week will begin ordering parts.

[HOGMIKE]

Front pipe came out after loosening rear header pipe exhaust flange nuts and the two bolts supporting the right tailpipe.  Wilmington dealer forgot to install a nut on the bolt that supports the rear header pipe behind the rear cylinder. Bolt was there, no nut on it. Also found the rear upper heatshield clamp loose.

Here is a "great" looking tensioner shoe (HD technicians words.)  Tech told me not to worry about it for another 25k miles.  Bike currently has 25k miles on it. Glad I pressed ahead even after finding the loose hardware. Will be out of town the rest of the week. Next week will begin ordering parts.

I bet he said "they all look like that", right?
He'll probably change them when they get to this point:
 

[Z10]

I guess I was good for another 25k

[johnsachs]

I bet he said "they all look like that", right?
He'll probably change them when they get to this point:
 

Better find the missing pieces.......
John

[HOGMIKE]

Better find the missing pieces.......
John

We found some big chunks in the bottom of the cam chest, I said we could just epoxy them back on and reuse them, but, he decided to go new! Go figure!
Some people just have too much money to throw around!
 

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

We just completed a build on a 2012 110" CVO Road Glide. 1200 miles.
Had a little valve train noise prior, and even more after.
S&S lifters tamed it right down.
Scott