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[moscooter]

 
My '09 CVO Ultra and my old '01 Road King both have done this a few times and it's a real problem when you're in busy traffic.

Riding along in traffic and the stop lite ahead goes red and you start to slow down and gear down.  On occassion,  the shifter acts like it is broken and/or won't ratchet.  You can kick it up and/or down and it won't seem to change out of whatever gear it's in.......like 3rd for example.

Now you're sitting stopped at the lite with traffic behind you and it still won't shift.  The only way I have found to get to shift is to get the bike moving again.  Obviously this is tough and hard on everything as I gotta rev it up and slip the clutch big time to get it moving.   Finally,  shifting returns to "normal"...........

This doesn't happen often,  but every once in a while.........

[SciFiGuy]

Started having the same problem last night on my 2012 SESG with less than 200 miles on her.

I was wondering if you ever found the problem that you were having. Have it at the dealer right now and I'm afraid there going to come back with the ol didn't do it when we took it for a test ride.

Thanks.

[Twolanerider]

Had a bike that behaved at least somewhat like your description.  A few bikes ago.  Was a surprisingly worn out shift drum.  Would be at least, it not more, questioning of full clutch disenagement though.  Lack of lever travel if changed to fatter grips (expecially with the hydraulic clutch) or air in the hydraulics, clutch adjustment, etc etc etc.

[sadunbar]

Air in your clutch - requiring clutch to be bled...
or
Could be primary chain ratcheted to tight, or drive belt to tight...
or
Primary fluid overfilled causing clutch plates to stick...
or
warped clutch plates or spacer plates...

First thing I would do is bleed the clutch.  Next I would pull the primary cover and first check the primary chain tension.  If it's good, then use a dial indicator on the end of the clutch pushrod and measure the clutch travel.  It should be a minimum of .065.  If your clutch is bled free of air and you don't have .065 travel, then you either have a bad master cylinder or bad clutch actuator (located under the transmission side cover).

If you have .065 travel, then I'd check your clutch plates and spacer plates for flat...  If they are flat, then I'd suspect possibly the primary was overfilled.  Clean the clutch plates, reassemble and refill the primary fluid - then test again!

Do you get clutch drag when starting your bike up cold (when in gear and clutch lever pulled in)?

[moscooter]

 
Nope,  no clutch drag while cold or otherwise.  Just an occassional "hangup" where it's like the ratching part does not sync. and the next time you go for a down shift,  you cannot get it.   Never a problem on upshifts.

[Midnight Rider]

As stated, I would still check the clutch fluid for air, or just flush it well while you're at it.  The clutch line runs close to some very hot parts, and if there is moisture in the fluid, it can boil causing all kinds of issues.  Same thing with the brake lines...I've seen many folks lose their rear brake after heating it up riding curvy roads.  After a few minutes sitting still, it comes back.  You can upshift almost any transmission without even using the clutch, but downshifting is a different animal.

[sadunbar]

Nope,  no clutch drag while cold or otherwise.  Just an occassional "hangup" where it's like the ratching part does not sync. and the next time you go for a down shift,  you cannot get it.   Never a problem on upshifts.

Very likely it's one of the things l listed...  You're clutch is on the edge of not releasing, which is necessary on a downshift (not as important on an upshift)...

[grc]

I tend to look first at the clutch when shift issues arise, mostly because I had serious issues shifting when my bike was new until I fixed it myself by bleeding the clutch properly.  Since that time, many people have had the same sort of problems that were traced to air in the line or a defective actuator.  And since '09 there have been many reports of intermittent problems due to the high heat of the exhaust affecting the fluid either in the line or at the actuator.  So it just seems to make sense to look in that direction.  Most definitely in the case of a brand new bike like Texas Eagle Rider's I would insist the dealer bleed the system and verify the release rod travel as detailed by sadunbar.

One other possibility that I remember from many years ago is related to the shift pawl in the trans.  I'm not that familiar with the Cruise Drive setup, but the older models had a centering adjustment for the pawl, and they also suffered in many cases from weak springs and binding that would keep the pawl from returning completely after a shift. I don't know if this could be a possibility in your case moscooter, but I thought I'd throw it out there for discussion.  It does kind of fit with your description of your problem.


Jerry

[mlbraptor]

Mine does the same thing..

[SciFiGuy]

Thanks for the replies everyone.

Just like I figured they tech took the bike out for a test ride yesterday and the problem did not return so they "can't do anything about it".

On the way to work this morning I had the same thing happen exiting the highway down shifting from third to second and nothing let out the clutch and it feels like its still in third. I Up shift and then down shift again and then it worked just like the four other times its happend.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed its as simple as air in the clutch. Is this something that would have been checked during the bikes set up?

Thanks again.

[moscooter]

 

Thanks for the suggestions,  I've not had the problem re-occur in quite some time.  But if it does,  I'll investigate the hydraulic clutch for possible (air) in the line as suggested.

[Midnight Rider]

Thanks for the replies everyone.

Just like I figured they tech took the bike out for a test ride yesterday and the problem did not return so they "can't do anything about it".

On the way to work this morning I had the same thing happen exiting the highway down shifting from third to second and nothing let out the clutch and it feels like its still in third. I Up shift and then down shift again and then it worked just like the four other times its happend.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed its as simple as air in the clutch. Is this something that would have been checked during the bikes set up?
Thanks again.

Not just no, but hell no.  The "setup" at the dealer consists of checking to see if there is air in the tires, oil in the crankcase, and no parts are about to fall off in the next 15 minutes, if you're lucky.

[mlbraptor]

AND; the dealer wants to charge you for the ' setup ' ..

[SciFiGuy]

Just a quick update. Took the bike back to the dealer after it started to get bad yesterday.

Service manager calls me and tells me 4 different people took the bike for a test ride today and it wouldn't happen to any of them.

Asked if they at least bleed the clutch like I was told they would do last night. Nope not even that. "Your clutch is fine"

Time to start over with another dealer I guess. 

[Midnight Rider]

Just a quick update. Took the bike back to the dealer after it started to get bad yesterday.

Service manager calls me and tells me 4 different people took the bike for a test ride today and it wouldn't happen to any of them.

Asked if they at least bleed the clutch like I was told they would do last night. Nope not even that. "Your clutch is fine"

Time to start over with another dealer I guess. 

Dimwits...won't even do something minor at a customer's request, knowing that you are having SOME kind of issue to cause it.  I mean, it's not like we make this chit up just to f with 'em...