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[BACAGrizz]

I just had the Stage II with 2" power cores installed on my 2011 CVO FLHXSE2.  The cams were above my skill level so I had them installed at the local Dealership and as long as they were doing that they might as well exchange the pipes and do the power cores too.  The upside there is that they found some wear on the cam tensioner, cam plate, rocker arms and oil pump at 25,000 miles and did a lot of the work under a warranty claim saving me a bunch of dough.  The mechanic was impressed at how nicely the stock heat shields went over the X-pipe.  My first impression is the money was well spent.

I have been using Syn3 which I will change out at my next service per the mechanics recommendation.  No more Synthetic for me.  H-D 20/50 from now on.

I have a couple of friends that call my bike "The rolling Wurlitzer" and one of them has been talking about getting me a patch that says; "Loud speakers save lives."  I was taking a lot of crap from them on how my radio was louder than my pipes,  Not any more!!!  Now my bike has a nice deep bass rumble at idle and roars nicely without being obnoxious under full throttle acceleration.  Cruising is a nice steady note that is pleasant to the ear and doesn't force me to turn the radio up too much more than I did with the stock exhaust.

Seat of the pants impression is that the bike is a lot smoother and acceleration is fairly crisp.  Rolling the throttle on from 75 mph gets me to 90 before I know it.  A friend of mine with a 103 Classic and I used to roll the throttle on from third gear on a certain highway interchange and he would not be far behind me when we leveled off at cruising speed.  The last time we did it (after Fullsac upgrade) he was 1/8 mile behind me when I realized I was approaching a buck and slowed down to let him catch up.  He said I just left him.  Very impressive.

If you're on the fence about this upgrade let me tell you it was definitely worth it.

If you are monitoring the forum, then let me say; "Thank you Steve for a good product at a reasonable price."

[CVODON]

Think your mechanic is living in the past, No reason in this day and age to use anything but synthetic regardless of brand it is just better. Sorry to hear your HD wrench is so misinformed he has influenced you.
Do some research on wear patterns/characteristics on google. Dino oil is just old tech.

[guppytrash]

Fullsac puts out good products.
I too scratched my head at your "no more synthetics".
If you are talking no more Syn3 in the primary or tranny.... There are heavier oils that will work better.
If you are talking your engine oil...then your tech is sniffing too much glue.  Stick with Synthetic...doesn't need to be Syn3, but these things get warm and synthetic oil will not break down as quick as dinosaur oil with high temps.

[BACAGrizz]

This isn't my first rodeo and it isn't the first bike I have run Syn3 in.  The reason I only have 25k miles on it now is I had to lay off riding for 7 months due to prostate surgery.  I had an 06 FLHXI that I had built to 95" off the showroom floor.  Ran Syn3 for it's entire life and had to rebuild it completely at 63k miles.  Changed the oil every 2500 miles.  When it was time to rebuild it was down to 50psi in the rear cylinder and 85 in the front.  Rebuilt it to 103 and ran 20w50 in it until I traded it for the 11 FLHXSE2 with no problems.  Prior to that an 04 FLH which I put 38k miles on using 20w50 with no trouble before trading it for the 06.

Previous to that, while I was in Alaska with a 6 month riding season,  I had an 87 FXSTC which I had run for over 180k miles using 20w50 and changing the oil every 3k miles and the only maintenance I ever did to it was at 125k miles I had to replace the base gaskets and so while they had the cylinders off I had it honed and put new rings in it.  Prior to that, also in Alaska, an 81 FXWG which I put 40k miles on using 20w50 with no adverse effects.

You can keep the synthetic for all I care.  It may be good but it's not for me.

[guppytrash]

Good Luck!
I will be interested to see how that works out for you in the 110.
Did you change the lifters when you had the cam done?
Yours being a 2011 has a different lifter (I think) then my 09 did so it may last better.
Here is a picture of my cam/lifter swap that I did at 25k.
The rear cylinder, intake lifter was seized.
My 09 has never had anything but synthetic in the engine, so interested to see your results. 

[rayz1951]

The service mgr. where I take my bike told me the same thing, to change to dino 20-50, to quiet the lifters.  I'm not as mechanically inclined as most of the people on this site, but, I always thought syn was better than dino.   

[willyB]

I know it's Apples & Oranges but I have a 2002 V6 Honda Accord with 205,000 miles on it. I've done no maintenance to this car except oil changes, brakes, tires and a couple of head lights. The car runs perfectly. It's only used the old style Valvoline dino oil.

Granted this engine design is much different than a HD but 205,000 on old dino sludge makes you wonder if it is really as bad as we're led to believe.

By the way, my 2011 CVO Street Glide has been drinking Synthetic for the past 16,000 miles. HD SYn for the first 10,000 and then Mobil 1 since.

I'd like to see some real "non oil company marketing" research on this subject. The question is: Would my 205,000 Honda run any different if I'd spent a lot more money on Syn oil over its lifetime?

Kinda makes you question the cost versus advantage of SYN.
70 oil changes at $8.00/SYN Quart X 5 Quarts/Change = $2,800
70 oil changes at $4.00/DINO Quart X 5 Quarts/Change = $1,400

$1,400 can fix a lot of stuff

[Texas Fat Boy]

I know it's Apples & Oranges but I have a 2002 V6 Honda Accord with 205,000 miles on it. I've done no maintenance to this car except oil changes, brakes, tires and a couple of head lights. The car runs perfectly. It's only used the old style Valvoline dino oil.

Granted this engine design is much different than a HD but 205,000 on old dino sludge makes you wonder if it is really as bad as we're led to believe.

By the way, my 2011 CVO Street Glide has been drinking Synthetic for the past 16,000 miles. HD SYn for the first 10,000 and then Mobil 1 since.

I'd like to see some real "non oil company marketing" research on this subject. The question is: Would my 205,000 Honda run any different if I'd spent a lot more money on Syn oil over its lifetime?

Kinda makes you question the cost versus advantage of SYN.
70 oil changes at $8.00/SYN Quart X 5 Quarts/Change = $2,800
70 oil changes at $4.00/DINO Quart X 5 Quarts/Change = $1,400

$1,400 can fix a lot of stuff

You are right not even an Apples & Oranges comparison.
A Honda Accord motor comparied to a 110 Harley motor??? come on man.

Plus you are changing the dino oil at 3,000 miles and wouldn't need to change the Synthetic but at 10,000 miles.
so your:
70 oil changes at $4.00/DINO Quart X 5 Quarts/Change = $1,400
vs.
20 oil changes at $8.00/SYN Quart X 5 Quarts/Change = $800
an actual savings of $600 using synthetic.

[Texas Fat Boy]

I just bought the Fullsac X-Pipe headers to replace my Vance & Hines True Duel headers.
I will have it retuned on the dyno next Wednesday and post any difference in numbers.
But right now I can tell you it sure sounds a heck of a lot better (meaner).

Never ride with a Half Sac

[Puzzled]

I just bought the Fullsac X-Pipe headers to replace my Vance & Hines True Duel headers.
I will have it retuned on the dyno next Wednesday and post any difference in numbers.
But right now I can tell you it sure sounds a heck of a lot better (meaner).

Never ride with a Half Sac

What was the reason behind the change?

edit: saw you went from true duals to X-pipe.

[timo482]

the real advantage of syn oil is it wont break down at high temps and it wont gell up at low temps - it was originally developed for piston aircraft engines. dino oil that was thin enough to work at -50 at high altitude would burn up in the engine at high temps near the ground

dino oil works fine as long as its changed out instantly when its been too hot - if it gets to 300f change it the next day

hd puts syn in 110's because they get in the high 200's for oil temp and dino oil will break down and fail at those temps and thus make a a warranty claim.

i use syn oil in the engine because on days like today when its 36f at 9am im going to get on the bike in about 15 mins - and the stuff wont be too thick, but will still be thick enough later this week when it will be 80 after work.

to

[Texas Fat Boy]

I just bought the Fullsac X-Pipe headers to replace my Vance & Hines True Duel headers.
I will have it retuned on the dyno next Wednesday and post any difference in numbers.
But right now I can tell you it sure sounds a heck of a lot better (meaner).

Never ride with a Half Sac

What was the reason behind the change?

edit: saw you went from true duals to X-pipe.

I changed for two reasons:
1) I really don't like the sound of True Duels,
2) I am trying to get rid or some control of the heat too.

I went with the Fullsac X-Pipe for three reasons:
1) They actually make a separate model for the 110 motor
2) They actually looked engineered like an header should, with 15 degree angles, step header
3) They are ceramic coated, I thought I would try that.

[YELLOWBIRD]

TFB,

You will be very stoked, once you get the Fulsac set up installed.

 
YELLOWBIRD

[Puzzled]

Has anyone noticed the difference in weight from the stock headpipe to the Fullsac X pipe? I didn't weigh them but there is a several pound difference.

[gearida]

I noticed a big weight difference between the factory head pipe and the very light X pipe of the Fuel Moto system.