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Author Topic: Started with the alternator, then comp, clutch hub, trans, cams, heads, pistons  (Read 14303 times)

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porthole

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56648 miles
Started with the alternator, then comp, clutch hub, trans, cams, heads, pistons and more.

Last year on the way back from Maggie Valley and about 300 miles from home the battery stopped charging. A tenuous ride for the next 300 to say the least, especially the stint on the NJTP where the trooper was pacing traffic through a construction zone at 5 MPH.

Any idea how hard it is to ride a 5 mph, at night, with a battery that is barely keeping things going?

Anyway, this started it. The coil is fried and another one ordered.

« Last Edit: October 21, 2013, 09:20:27 PM by porthole »
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You can't control the weather, only how you deal with it

porthole

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Along the way to that though I found a few other things, namely the compensator cam had some funky wear marks on the ramps.




The tensioner is pretty well worn




Of course, that was not to be a simple replace, lets have the retaining screws seize in the primary





Then there was the loose clutch hub.
These parts are not supposed to be loose in the hub and are non serviceable.



And either the loose parts cause this or this cause the loose parts - don't know.




Haven't checked to see what the official name for this race is but it is the seal behind the comp sprocket.





And that is just this side of the bike

« Last Edit: April 16, 2013, 05:53:22 PM by porthole »
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1982 LowRider * 1974 XLCH * 1972 Adnoh
You can't control the weather, only how you deal with it

RayG

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What do you have for mileage?  I have 61K on my SERK and did the primary three times, stator was OK but it must bake in that location.  After you go through this a few times it makes it real hard to stay with the MOCO.  My run - out was excessive so I'm in the process of installing a 124 S&S is in its place.  Should be done in about 10 days.  Even if I could afford it, which I can't at this time.  I can't justify the high cost of a CVO starter kit.  The original cost is high enough but with all the repair bills it's getting out of hand.  I don't plan on purchasing another.  Wife sold her bike and now rides with me, so next bike will have her in mind.  Maybe I'll go to the dark side.  Good luck and hope you can put many trouble free miles on her.  We have both replaced our compensator's (3 for me)  did you ever wonder how long they last on a 120R when really driven hard?   I think Jerry said it best in an older post, would we stand for this crap with our cars & trucks?  Made up my mind for me. 
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porthole

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Currently about 56,550
10,900 when the dealer did the valves and screwed up my rings, but that is coming up yet.

My run out was .003 in March 2009, about 25K ago when I did the cams and it is still .003
« Last Edit: August 21, 2013, 08:50:25 AM by porthole »
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You can't control the weather, only how you deal with it

Boatman

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Sorry to see the troubles Duanne.  When the stator goes bad, it really does a number on the primary oil/tensioner plastic.
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RayG

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Why would the stator do a number on the primary oil/tensioner plastic?  I'm guessing it's from the heat breaking down the oil.  I can see where the damage would come from the metal pieces grinding away at every moving part it can get into.  I know knowthing about stators but I thought once they shorted out or became incapable of doing it's job it just died.  I may be wrong but the last time I opened my primary to replace the SE compensator quite a bit of metal got into the metal cover/magnet housing the stator.  I would think the stripped clutch splines did the most damage, but I could be wrong.  Either way it sure gets darn hot where it is currently located.  I wonder how long they last with an open primary? 
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porthole

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Figured since I was into the primary this far and I was planning on pulling the exhaust anyway, I decided to remove the gear set and send it back to Baker. Still under warranty.
Not real crazy about the way it shifts, does some grinding occasionally, especially between 2-3 and sometimes between 3-4. And I have found neutral at one time or another between every gear.

On the plus side, there was no drama this time pulling the main drive gear.

http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=34600.0;all reply # 15
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You can't control the weather, only how you deal with it

porthole

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The D&D Fat Cats are off.
Last year I did some cutting on the O2 bungs to try and seat the O2 sensors deeper. From the looks of the coloring, I got them deeper in the pipe, but there was no change in how the bike ran. Still real hot on the rear pipe and 32-33 MPG.

http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=72343.0;all

This is what they looked like last year (top) compared to this year.



At least they appear to be in the exhaust stream now.




I sent the head pipes from my V&H true duals out to Drago's to have bungs installed and ceramic coated.
I think the ceramic coating does squat for the heat, but they look nice and don't change color (much)

The rear pipe in this picture has gotten so hot that the ceramic lost it's luster some.

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MV 2013

1982 LowRider * 1974 XLCH * 1972 Adnoh
You can't control the weather, only how you deal with it

porthole

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So - since the pipes are off - why not check the cam tensioners.





Well, if the outer is funky looking you may as well pull the cams and check the rear.

Cams Are Zipper's 575's. Noisy. Sounds like a sewing machine some times.

I have adjusted the valves multiple times trying to lessen the noise. Went as far as breaking that special jam nut on one push rod.

http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=38808.0

Last year I pulled the SE lifters that were installed with the cams and replaced them with S&S lifters with the hydraulic limiters.
There may be 4,000 miles or so on these.

And one of them looks like this. This is the front intake, same lobe that failed on Kathy's bike, same cams, about the same install and miles.
And the lifters did nothing for the noise.




« Last Edit: April 16, 2013, 06:31:16 PM by porthole »
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1982 LowRider * 1974 XLCH * 1972 Adnoh
You can't control the weather, only how you deal with it

porthole

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Cams ......................

The color shows up more in the pictures then it does to the eye.









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You can't control the weather, only how you deal with it

porthole

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The bike is going to get new cams, seriously considering the S&S 570's with the easy start.

The cam plate looks like this. This is at 4 years now.
At one year I had pulled the plate out to change the oil spring because of excessive pressure, thought that might have been my dip stick issue. At 1 year it had the same exact wear, hasn't gotten any worse so it is going back in.

The wear can barely be felt with a fingernail. Plate changed color too, from black to this nice burgundy.



The oil pump looks real good. And the crank run out is still the same as it was 4 years ago, .003" I really expected it to be worse, considering that I tend to be a little low in the RPM's at times.
The original cam plate had a lot of wear on the crank shaft bushing. The bushing looks real good on this one.



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1982 LowRider * 1974 XLCH * 1972 Adnoh
You can't control the weather, only how you deal with it

timo482

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if i can feel a ridge with my nail - its about .0004 or bigger, so if you cant feel it with a nail its smaller than that

to
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porthole

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Pulled the cams - why not the heads? That way I can clean them up and match the cams to the head work

Rear, looks pretty good considering the miles and for as hot as it runs.



Front, lot of build up in here. So much for Shell's claim to "cleaning your engine as you drive".




Was kind of surprised to see these grooves on the top of the valves







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MV 2013

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You can't control the weather, only how you deal with it

porthole

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And if you are going to go this far - why not  :nixweiss:

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MV 2013

1982 LowRider * 1974 XLCH * 1972 Adnoh
You can't control the weather, only how you deal with it

porthole

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Rear



Front



Rear



Front





« Last Edit: April 16, 2013, 09:49:02 PM by porthole »
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MV 2013

1982 LowRider * 1974 XLCH * 1972 Adnoh
You can't control the weather, only how you deal with it
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