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[willyB]

Look, I have a 2011 CVO Streetglide with like 21,000 miles or so on it. Had the compensator replaced at about 14,000 miles and the connection between the throttle and the rear tire finally seemed solidly connected. Note! the dealer replaced everything in the primary except the clutch plates.

That connected feeling lasted about a month and then the slop came back. Now with 7,000 miles on it I about ready to just sell this damn thing and buy a BMW.

I've heard a zillion stories about the disconnected drive train slop here from everything from tensioners, oiler designs to that the slop is in the cogs of the tranny and that Redline with Shockproof fixes it. Tried Redline. Easier to find neutral but that's about it.

I just hate riding this damn thing because I become so ultra aware of making very precise throttle adjustments to keep the Clank/Clunk under control while moving on and off the throttle. It does it 1st thru 6th! Back roads, Highways, over bumps, you name it.

Anybody got any permanent fixes for this before I just sell this damn thing!

I don't really care right now how much it costs. Performance Machine has a $3,000 open belt primary but before I do this HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Twolanerider]

Anybody got any permanent fixes for this

Buy a bike 2006 and older.  The drive trains were still solid then.  Unless it's an 06 CVO.  Because then the paint sucked and all those people got jerked around.  Unless it's a an 04 CVO.  Because that year the chrome had all kinds of issues.  Unless it's a 99 or 2000 model because then the cam bearings were trash.  Unless it's an 99-01 touring because they were still Marelli.  Unless it is that pre-06 that was mentioned but happens to be 04 or 05 because they didn't have the Timken bearings anymore.  So that makes the choice easy.  If you want a good solid CVO touring model in a year that hasn't had any corners cut, no systemic issues, and has even the semblance of a modern fuel management system you need to get an 02 or 03 SE Road King.  Except for the purple 02.  Because... well... they're ugly.

[brassspike]

I guess all brands have problems. I rode a trip with a BMW along recently. Every morning that darn thing started and sounded like a box of rocks were in the crankcase! Once the oil got up is was quiet, but on cold start up is was worse than any HD I've heard.
Sorry that you are having problems!

[OBB]

Buy a bike 2006 and older.  The drive trains were still solid then.  Unless it's an 06 CVO.  Because then the paint sucked and all those people got jerked around.  Unless it's a an 04 CVO.  Because that year the chrome had all kinds of issues.  Unless it's a 99 or 2000 model because then the cam bearings were trash.  Unless it's an 99-01 touring because they were still Marelli.  Unless it is that pre-06 that was mentioned but happens to be 04 or 05 because they didn't have the Timken bearings anymore.  So that makes the choice easy.  If you want a good solid CVO touring model in a year that hasn't had any corners cut, no systemic issues, and has even the semblance of a modern fuel management system you need to get an 02 or 03 SE Road King.  Except for the purple 02.  Because... well... they're ugly.

I hope Neal doesn't read this thread   

[grc]

I'm pretty sure I mentioned this before, but have you bothered to check the play in the rear wheel sprocket isolators?  The 2011 model has the integrated rubber dampers between the sprocket and the wheel, not the separate unit of the older bikes, but I'm going to assume they are just as liable to suffer from excessive play and even metal to metal contact as some of those original IDS units.  It definitely is something to include in the diagnostics when you have excessive play and noise on a late model bike.

Jerry

[willyB]

I seriously doubt it's the isolates on the rear sprocket but I will check.

Do none of you experience that clack when your of on of the throttle while cruising? It's not while on throttle or off throttle it's when you make small throttle adjustments.

It's killing me! I love the feel of a big Harely but I am seriously considering getting rid of this thing. Nobody seems to have this issue?

Maybe I just need to sell all my Harley tshirts, leathers, etc.. And start over with BMW or something.

[Black Diamond]

.. And start over with BMW or something.

Might look into all the issues with the BMW K1600.  On our annual trip my buddy's K1600 switch controlling his windshield went out.  Few hundred miles later when we were in W.V. it would not start.  Had to have it trailered 180 miles to a shop in Ohio as there are no BMW shops in W.V.  Fortunately the shop had a totaled 2013 to take the necessary parts from as it takes about a week to get what was needed.

It was kind fun videoing trying to push start a BMW in a Harley parking lot.

I'm hoping Indian gives Harley true competition.  Harley needs someone to take a significant market share from them.  i'm open to looking at others tho.

JW

[North Georgia Hawg]

I seriously doubt it's the isolates on the rear sprocket but I will check.

Do none of you experience that clack when your of on of the throttle while cruising? It's not while on throttle or off throttle it's when you make small throttle adjustments.

It's killing me! I love the feel of a big Harely but I am seriously considering getting rid of this thing. Nobody seems to have this issue?

Maybe I just need to sell all my Harley tshirts, leathers, etc.. And start over with BMW or something.

Nope... I don't experience that at all.

Have you checked the primary chain tension? That MIGHT be the problem. Perhaps the tensioner is not ratcheting up properly, or perhaps it's ratcheting up too much. Sounds like it may be too loose, from your description of the "clack" when making throttle adjustments.

You mentioned that they replaced everything in the primary except the clutch plates. Did they replace the primary chain tensioner, too?

Ken

[willyB]

I just got off the phone with Scott from Hillside. Let me just say he was great to speak with. SUPER helpful.

I was talking to him about some build ideas for the winter. When I mentioned to him the problem I was having he said it sounded like a loose primary chain. I asked him about solutions and he suggested the Baker non-adjustable tensioner. He said he's installed them on a few bikes and they've seemed to work great. Obviously you need to pull the primary cover to adjust but how hard is that, really. Just a few bolts.

I'll keep following this topic but I've got Baker on my mind. It think its $200.

[brassspike]

Just a thought. I had a 98 wide glide that I replaced the cam among other things. It ran very well and at idle it had a nice Harley lope. That lope was a problem riding across a parking lot at or near idle. It wanted to load and unload the drive train which created a terrible bucking. Could it be your engine/tune at idle and the drive train amplifying?

[North Georgia Hawg]

I just got off the phone with Scott from Hillside. Let me just say he was great to speak with. SUPER helpful.

I was talking to him about some build ideas for the winter. When I mentioned to him the problem I was having he said it sounded like a loose primary chain. I asked him about solutions and he suggested the Baker non-adjustable tensioner. He said he's installed them on a few bikes and they've seemed to work great. Obviously you need to pull the primary cover to adjust but how hard is that, really. Just a few bolts.

I'll keep following this topic but I've got Baker on my mind. It think its $200.

Glad that Scott thinks the same as I mentioned about it possibly being a loose primary chain.

You should consider the Hayden BT07 primary chain tensioner. That's what run in my '12 SESG. I have run it in other bikes as well. Only costs around $100. It's spring loaded so it never needs adjustment, and always keeps the right tension on the primary chain.

If the issue is indeed a loose primary chain, then your dealer's service dept are idiots for replacing everything and never verifying the primary chain tension. It could be something else, though...

Good luck.

Ken

[grc]

One other thought that no one else has mentioned so far, so I'll throw it out.  Did you perhaps have the electronic throttle control response curve modified?  What I mean by that is the built in lag that Harley has programmed into the ETC to limit how quickly the engine responds to throttle movement at lower engine speeds.  Harley has other reasons for incorporating that system, but one affect is to dampen the initial reaction to throttle changes.  It is quite possible when people modify those settings to create a "jerky" response when combined with all the lash in the driveline.

As for the primary tensioner, IF the chain is in fact too loose then changing the tensioner may be your answer.  But at this point I don't see any proof the chain is loose.  The late model auto tensioners usually have the opposite problem, ratcheting up too tight.  If you pull the primary cover and the chain is actually loose, then perhaps a change will correct your problem.  If that isn't the case, throwing a manually adjustable tensioner in there, regardless of brand, isn't likely to solve anything.  Don't forget, the manual versions are set up with more free play than what is normal with the automatic system if it's working correctly.

Just some random thoughts.

Jerry

[willyB]

One other thought that no one else has mentioned so far, so I'll throw it out.  Did you perhaps have the electronic throttle control response curve modified?  What I mean by that is the built in lag that Harley has programmed into the ETC to limit how quickly the engine responds to throttle movement at lower engine speeds.  Harley has other reasons for incorporating that system, but one affect is to dampen the initial reaction to throttle changes.  It is quite possible when people modify those settings to create a "jerky" response when combined with all the lash in the driveline.

As for the primary tensioner, IF the chain is in fact too loose then changing the tensioner may be your answer.  But at this point I don't see any proof the chain is loose.  The late model auto tensioners usually have the opposite problem, ratcheting up too tight.  If you pull the primary cover and the chain is actually loose, then perhaps a change will correct your problem.  If that isn't the case, throwing a manually adjustable tensioner in there, regardless of brand, isn't likely to solve anything.  Don't forget, the manual versions are set up with more free play than what is normal with the automatic system if it's working correctly.

Just some random thoughts.

Jerry

Jerry,

Holy Schmoly! Never thought of that. I've definitely got throttle response. But then again designing in throttle lag to overcome other design issues makes me even more scared.

I called the 4 main HD dealers here in town. One said right away it's the compensator, another thought it could be the compensator or the nut coming loose since I had the compensator replaced only 5,000 miles ago, another said it was probably the rear sprocket compensator until I told him I had the compensator replaced 5,000 ago then he said it was the compensator and the one said that all Harley have slop and noise in the drivetrain.

I guess I just need to sell this POS! Too many potential issues or poorly designed components in the drivetrain.

[110tHunDer]

 
Well, you sure as heck don't want to let Scott throw more power at it until you get it figured out!

I don't have anything like what you describe.  Still running the stock tensioner and 9,000 miles on the compensator.  Bike is buttery smooth at all speeds.

[RoadRunnr]

Before my 2012 got totaled, I had 25,045 on the odometer, once I changed to Redline, the noise went away.
All brands have good and bad, same with cars.
Maybe you just got the bad one, changing brands doesn't mean your luck will be better or worse, just different.
From everything I just read on this post, sounds like you need it to go to a GOOD mechanic. I personally have little confidence in any dealership mechanics, I have had little good luck with them. be it Harley, Yamaha, Ford, Chevy.... just my personal luck with dealers.

I have always had best luck doing the work myself, or finding a mechanic outside dealerships.

Good luck, what ever way you decide to go.