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[SEULTRA]

This is what the riser bolt that comes up from the bottom looks like. If you pull it, ensure the cupped washer faces up when reinstalling.

[SEULTRA]

I used blue painters tape to mask off the radio trim area. Helped keep from scratching/damaging the inner fairing. Note the grounding wire near the left riser clamp area.

[SEULTRA]

Picture of the stock handlebars after removal. The wire length coming out of the new handlebars will be shorter but will still work just fine.

[SEULTRA]

I found it helpful to photograph connections before I disconnected them. They turned out a bit blurry so I didn't post them here. Having the shop manual was a big plus. If you have any questions, just ask. Just don't ask me how long it took. Don't rush it and wait till AFTER to celebrate with the  [smiley=drink.gif] [smiley=drink.gif] [smiley=drink.gif] [smiley=drink.gif] [smiley=drink.gif] [smiley=drink.gif] [smiley=drink.gif] [smiley=drink.gif] [smiley=drink.gif] [smiley=drink.gif] [smiley=drink.gif] [smiley=drink.gif] [smiley=drink.gif] [smiley=drink.gif] [smiley=drink.gif]
It was well worth the effort and provided a lot of satisfaction knowing I did it myself and it was done right.  [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]

[nixobilly]

ohhhhh,

this makes my stomach turn......

I want these bars but I looks like removing my own appendix without anesthesia.....  


mark

[Midnight Rider]

Thanks SE......those pics help!!!  Is the only thing you had to lengthen the brake line?  I take it the clutch/brake/switch assembly just dangle off to the side somewhere till you get the new bars wired and put back in?  Also, you must have changed the bushings for the risers?

[SEULTRA]

Thanks SE......those pics help!!!  Is the only thing you had to lengthen the brake line?  I take it the clutch/brake/switch assembly just dangle off to the side somewhere till you get the new bars wired and put back in?  Also, you must have changed the bushings for the risers?

You're welcome. Yes, just the brake line. I used Harley's 2+ braided stainless lines. Be aware there are 3 lines to the kit not the one piece like stock    Be careful when you put it all together because there is actually a right and a left brake line coming down from the manifold to the  caliper. Just pay attention to how the banjo fittings are oriented on the stock lines before you remove them. The manifold that comes with the kit looks like a hockey puck and I had to use a new longer stainless bolt with washers for spacers to secure it to the underside of the steering head, otherwise I wouldn't have been able to put the chrome brake line cover back on. As it is, I couldn't attach the 2 small screws that hold the sides of the chrome cover on but the single stainless steel bolt I used holds it just fine. I couldn't bring myself to not put that cover back on. I used a piece of cotton clothesline to loosely tie off my clutch and brake lever assemblies. I didn't change the bushings for the risers. They were in good shape and I was careful to make sure they were properly positioned and seated when I reinstalled the bolts. I removed the bolts to make the handlebar removal and re installation easier.

[porthole]

So just what is these Wild1 575 chubbys and why would I want them

[Midnight Rider]

So just what is these Wild1 575 chubbys and why would I want them

[porthole]

am getting soreness in my shoulder/neck area on longer trips...these should put me in a more relaxed riding position.

H'mm, have the same issue after long rides, once again, thanks to this site I have to figure out how to come up with more funds for my bike.

Have you figured out the rough total costs with a DIY install?

[Midnight Rider]

Duane,  If you order the bars from Jim (hd-dude) he will give members here a discount.  The brake line kit is HD part number 45252-04...if you order through one of the 20% places like Zanotti or Chicago, it is $137.95 - 20%, plus shipping.  The best clamp to use (per Jime) is from Custom Chrome Inc, and is about 25 bucks...you can look them up on the web and fiind a local dealer for your area...the part number for the clamp is 26145.  All of that should run right about $350.  I'm also going to have to replace the clamp part on my Tecmount for the GPS, changing it from 1" to 1 1/4"...it's chrome, so that's an additional 35 bucks or so.  The 1 1/4" bars actually look better on the bike and should definitely be more comfortable if you have arms less than 34".  The angle of your wrists should also be improved with these bars.  Ergonomically, I think HD makes these bikes "fit" people from about 5'10" to 6'3" or so...that's understandable, but causes those like me to have to tweak the bike to make it more user friendly and comfortable.  The Corbin seat helped that situation a great deal, and this should be the last thing like this I have to do to make the bike more comfortable for me.  Not only are the stock bars a reach for me, but the angle is not good either, so after a day of riding, my shoulder muscles, right where they come up the sides of my neck, get knotted up and start burning a bit.  Plus, my wrists get a bit uncomfortable from being cocked to the right/left due to the angle of the grips.  Thumb can get numb too, depending on how I'm holding the grip on the right side...two fingers on the brake, no problem, but if I wrap my hand around the grip for a few minutes, the thumb gets tingley.  These are just small things, but I'm going to be doing some 5-8 hundred mile days in the next few years, and it will make a huge difference in how I feel at the end of those days.

Here's a link to some pics of the bars on an Ultra  http://www.wild1inc.com/575.html   , and some information about the bars.

[Twolanerider]

H'mm, have the same issue after long rides, once again, thanks to this site I have to figure out how to come up with more funds for my bike.

Have you figured out the rough total costs with a DIY install?

Duane, on mine the stock bars got me worse right between the shoulder blades and more just a bit right of center.  A few of us who've shared handlebar stories experienced just about the same thing.  Put these bars on, that went away completely and immediately.  The angle for your hands and wrists is more comfortable too.  A side benefit to all that is the bars look better on the bike too.

[hogasm]

So just what is these Wild1 575 chubbys and why would I want them  [smiley=nixweiss.gif]  [smiley=nixweiss.gif] [smiley=nixweiss.gif]

Duane, you should buy them just because we feel the need to spend your money [smiley=huepfenlol2.gif]

Hogasm

[porthole]

replace the clamp part on my Tecmount

Figures, I have two Techmounts.
What about the grips and the control pods?

The symptoms both you and Don described I can relate to. I remembered that Don had did it already and meant to check out the bike at MV, but we just kept so busy, and when there was "down time" I was "down the road".

[hogasm]

Duane, thought I would mess with you a little. I have Harley's pull back bars and just broke them in half. Going to call H D Dude and order a set from him tonight. The added length makes the long rides more comfortable. Will make this comment, On the bikes that had these bars on them in MV, they look 100% better than Harley's bars.
Hogasm