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[Jswerve]

Yeah perhaps but so will the 54 unless it is advanced. Would take a piston change to get the 577 on cam, agreed.
Really the 255 is hard to beat when tuned and with proper headwork.

Can you eliminate a lot of the heat issues that the 255 has? What kind of head work would the 255 work well with?

[TorqueInc]

  Headwork does not help the 255 cams the heads flow more than enough air as it is.

  And yeah this has been tried....stock valves, port work heads flowed over 300 intake and 217 ish exhaust.....kinda pointless putting them back together with stock parts.

  The 255 is an emissions cam that needs to be removed....if you want the geritol torque curve and the bike to shut off before the fun starts....leave the thing alone and have it tuned....good pipe...open ac ...and ride it.

  If you want it to run how it is supposed to run.....pick a cam....GMR577,Kury24D, the 54 can be made to work do a little bit of head work, better set of springs,it will run cooler,broad torque and miles of smiles.

[Jswerve]

 

  If you want it to run how it is supposed to run.....pick a cam....GMR577,Kury24D, the 54 can be made to work do a little bit of head work, better set of springs,it will run cooler,broad torque and miles of smiles.

I want this.  I am working with Frank Drago hoping for this kind of setup.

Sent from my SCH-R970 using Tapatalk

[Doc 1]

Yeah perhaps but so will the 54 unless it is advanced. Would take a piston change to get the 577 on cam, agreed.
Really the 255 is hard to beat when tuned and with proper headwork.

I agree with Dewey...the 54 cam has no low end power. The 255 cam and the heads T-Man is doing for Doc's Performance Tuning is getting 128 tq and 105 to 108 hp. This build is getting 120 tq at 2750 rpm and holds that for 1000 rpms. It carries 110 tq all the way to 5000 rpm, It's hard to beat the low and mid range power the 255 gives, the trick is getting that power to carry to the right and this combo does just that.
Doc     
 

[Jswerve]

I agree with Dewey...the 54 cam has no low end power. The 255 cam and the heads T-Man is doing for Doc's Performance Tuning is getting 128 tq and 105 to 108 hp. This build is getting 120 tq at 2750 rpm and holds that for 1000 rpms. It carries 110 tq all the way to 5000 rpm, It's hard to beat the low and mid range power the 255 gives, the trick is getting that power to carry to the right and this combo does just that.
Doc     
 

Doc why do you have to be so damn far away lol! 

[TorqueInc]

I agree with Dewey...the 54 cam has no low end power. The 255 cam and the heads T-Man is doing for Doc's Performance Tuning is getting 128 tq and 105 to 108 hp. This build is getting 120 tq at 2750 rpm and holds that for 1000 rpms. It carries 110 tq all the way to 5000 rpm, It's hard to beat the low and mid range power the 255 gives, the trick is getting that power to carry to the right and this combo does just that.
Doc     
 

   Has no low end power as a bolt in...true....add some compression and they come right to life.

  Are there better cams ? yes there are

  Id rather have 110-112 torque at 2500 and have it carry to redline....the 255 will not do that.

[INDEPENDENT_1]

Thanks everyone.  

  The SE255s are strong cams,  

If you like the bottom end snap of the 255's, you wont like the lazy bottom end torque from the 54's. You really need to be honest with yourself about your riding style and where you want your fun factor before selecting a cam. The 255's are not for everybody but most of the heat can be addressed with a good tune. The low compression that comes with a stock 110" top end narrows the cam choices considerably IMO but if you're pulling the heads, the game changes. Even so, you still need to be honest with yourself about your riding style.

[FlaHeatWave]

I never did care for the 255s

[HD Street Performance]

Can you eliminate a lot of the heat issues that the 255 has? What kind of head work would the 255 work well with?

Yes easily
A larger intake valve (throat size is left unchanged), minor port reshaping with careful attention not to increase the CSA much, better seat forms and valve cuts that enhance flow (the right way in and out  ) Has the effect of giving the 255 legs at the top. Typical 110 will make 110hp and 125tq and with a proper tune and pipe runs as cool as any twin cam. The big fat torque early with no dip will still be there if the right pipe is deployed.

[Jswerve]

Yes easily
A larger intake valve (throat size is left unchanged), minor port reshaping with careful attention not to increase the CSA much, better seat forms and valve cuts that enhance flow (the right way in and out  ) Has the effect of giving the 255 legs at the top. Typical 110 will make 110hp and 125tq and with a proper tune and pipe runs as cool as any twin cam. The big fat torque early with no dip will still be there if the right pipe is deployed.

Now that's biker porn right there!

[TorqueInc]

   Might still get the big early torque....pull a little longer as any engine does with proper headwork but its still an emissions cam with too much exhaust duration.

   Best tune in the world and depending on where you are the thing is still gonna be running hot and hard to restart especially if you increase compression.....and the geritol torque curve.

[redbeard719]

Some great feedback here, I do appreciate it.

I think I'm going to skip the head gaskets.  ROI is minimal, and there are better ways to achieve higher compression ratios.

That said, I've also been doing some light reading about the Andrews 57H.  Whats everyone think of its performance?


For reference, I'm running a Heavy Breather, and MGS True Duals.  Tuning with an SERT.

[TorqueInc]

  57H like the 54 or any of the other cams popular these days will need a pretty good bump in compression.

   Once that work has been done there are better choices.

[redbeard719]

I knew this would happen.  I just knew it.   

Now you guys got me thinking about pulling the heads.   

Can anyone give me a loose estimate on headwork.  I'm just talking basic headwork for a 110", including a valve job.  

If PMs are better suited, since I know we have several vendors here doing these service, please do so.  

Fwiw, I'm not trying to go with a high lift cam.  My riding is about 50/50 solo/2up.  Lots of mountain riding with long hills and mountain passes.  I enjoy the occasional rip here and there, but I'm not an aggressive rider.  I don't lug the motor, but I also don't want cams that come on late.  I'd say most of my riding is between 2500-3500 RPMs.

[05Train]

I knew this would happen.  I just knew it.   

Now you guys got me thinking about pulling the heads.   

Can anyone give me a loose estimate on headwork.  I'm just talking basic headwork for a 110", including a valve job.  

If PMs are better suited, since I know we have several vendors here doing these service, please do so.  

Fwiw, I'm not trying to go with a high lift cam.  My riding is about 50/50 solo/2up.  Lots of mountain riding with long hills and mountain passes.  I enjoy the occasional rip here and there, but I'm not an aggressive rider.  I don't lug the motor, but I also don't want cams that come on late.  I'd say most of my riding is between 2500-3500 RPMs.

My engine is apart and my heads are off.....And the labor is covered under warranty.  I seriously considered headwork....Called TR and everything.  I'm not doing it, and here's why...

- I'm not building a hotrod and don't care what numbers the bike produces.  I want rideable.  I want cooler than stock.  I want reliable.  I don't care about dyno sheet bragging rights.

- Headwork with my cam choice (which, as I mentioned, isn't about max power) will add somewhere around 10 horsepower and a bit of torque.  That's a lot of money for not a lot of return because.....

- I have no intention of increasing compression past adding a .030 head gasket.  This is a touring bike and I have no intention of making it less capable as such.  I've been stuck in the middle of nowhere in 110 degree heat and lousy gas.  I will be again, and I don't want to be panicking about my high-compression motor.

- T-Man is 2 months on headwork right now.

- $1,000 for heads (with minimal gain) buys a lot of gas and motel rooms for trips.  It also more than covers a Corbin Dual Tour, which will make a far more noticeable improvement to the bike.


For a hotrod bike, heads are a must - especially with a big cam.  For what I'm trying to do (which sounds very similar to what you're trying to do), I don't see the need.