Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[bigskyroadglide]

shot of the cams, those 255's can take a beating

[bigskyroadglide]

another cam shot

[bigskyroadglide]

shot of debris, from oil pan, i rubbed my finger over the pan inside, this is what i got in return

[bigskyroadglide]

shot of inside oil pump, check out those grooves.....

[bigskyroadglide]

another internal oil pump shot

[bigskyroadglide]

so, moral of the story, change you LIFTERS, these had 18K on them.  as to my 110, say good bye..... it is in nice neat orderly boxes in my garage.

picked up the bike on the 12th, bike started and ran well, took a 5 mile jaunt and signed off on the repair. 

not certain i would have ever gone this way, but whats done is done. as to the future, well got home with the bike in a trailer on the 12th around 11pm.  Had to do a few things, drop off the trailer, change the oil in the truck, etc on the 13th.  so only got to take a short ride, doing break in miles, rode about 50 miles today, mostly stop and go traffic with a short 5 mile ride on the freeway. did the 30 60 30 breakin method before mile 20. Never got out of 5th, never got over 65.  Engine seems to be making good power. Going out for another ride in the am, Noticed temp on the engine runs a bit higher than before, around 265 degrees, however it was 80 degrees today, that was even with the new SE extra 1.5 pan, so thats with 5 qts of oil, but i got lots better oil pressure 45 lbs at speed, 20 at idle., some top end noise but thats to be expected with the SE 266 cams. throttle body is a little louder, 58 appears to be drawing more air than the 55. 5.3 GPS injectors appear to love the fuel.  overall it appears i may have to drop the lowers in the summer, just for airflow, installed a new jagg 10 row as the replacement for the harley low mount oil cooler.  I spoke with Bob Wood and he suggested running two jagg 10 rows, one on each side, he said it would probably do the trick with the extra oil.

Got to figure out what to do with the 110 emblem in the middle of my ventilator, it does not go well with my other badges. 

oh by the way, say hello.....to my little friend... the 120R.  ITS like putting a 454 in an S10.  Every time you twist the throttle, the front wheel wants to come off the ground.

PS thanks Badger Mike for all your advice.  Its not a 124 (6 week wait) but its close.

[OBB]

Change is good,,, or so I've heard   Just curious, What kind of extra cash over what they Warranty paid did that run if I may so bold as to ask?

[bigskyroadglide]

its was a bargain at any price. 

Lets break it down so we don't confuse the masses.  You don't need the SE 1.5 extra oil pan, deduct 599.95  You don't need a jagg 10 row, deduct 349.95, You don't need a barnett clutch  deduct 299.95 or the new primary chain adjuster, deduct 149.95.

So my total bill was...... $4704.  less  the above $1399.80. = $3,304 inclusive of tax and labor. vs building the 110 correctly, with the SE crank 1249.95(less 749.95 from ESP), the 10.5 forged pistons 349.95 (ESP did not replace) , the MVA heads 1399.95 (could of run the 110 heads but why???), the billet cam plate 499.95 (less 299.95 from ESP), 58 MM throttle body 449.45 (could of run the 55), 5.3 injectors 149.95 (could of run the 4.9), etc... which was less than $3,304 however i would still have a 110 vs the 120R which has the SE crank, the MVA heads, the billet cam plate, etc... out of the box.  I did not include having the crank trued and welded by Rev Performance in the above ##'s or having the timken conversion done.  Once i got close to the change out ##, i quit comparing and moved forward.

I could not make the math work in my mind to justify not building the 110 correctly, therefore i chose this method.

[FlaHeatWave]

Congrats on the 120R Sounds like it's a Blast to ride

The 'eagle only' plate for the Ventilator is available separately for about $15.

Is ESP going to cover the 120R? LOL!

[bigskyroadglide]

no, actually am looking into a company that will provide coverage for all screamin eagle products which includes the 120R, costs are comparable to ESP, so it might be worth while to do a conversion on ESP companies.

[skippy]

Air cleaner badges i found a cnc man that actually works on my guns (porting) the slides that is going to make me up a new badge he can do about anything u want  going to see him this week  will report back ...

[Ridgerunr]

Glad your on the road again. Are you running the lifters that came in the 120? They have been known to fail also. I'd go S&S Premium.

[ultrarider123]

its was a bargain at any price. 

So my total bill was...... $4704.  less  the above $1399.80. = $3,304 inclusive of tax and labor.

I'm interested in how the 120R holds up.  I know there are quite a few of our members that have done this swap long before any failure with the 110 and in your case because of a major 110 failure.
I decided not to purchase the ESP and my warranty has expired (middle of this past March).  I took the money I was going to invest and put it in an savings fund labeled "bike repairs".  My thinking on this was to do what you did and not rebuild the 110 but to use the set-aside funds to replace it with the 120R if/when I have any major issues with the 110.  From your cost (I'm assuming $4,704 would be a "good" price for replacing a 110 with a 120R give or take a few hundred), that's really not a bad swap price wise whether you had ESP or not although taking that $1,400 off the top helped with the decision.  Keep us informed of how you like/dislike the new motor and the issue you may or may not have.  As for the power change going to the 120R, I have the 5.3 V8 in my Colorado so I understand.....

[bigskyroadglide]

Glad your on the road again. Are you running the lifters that came in the 120? They have been known to fail also. I'd go S&S Premium.

The lifters and the 266 cams are coming out at 1000 miles. Going back with wood 408 cams and S&S lifters along with adjustable push rods

266 's come on strong at about 3 k
Really feel the power of this engine should come on around 1800 to 2000 so I want to move the torque curve to the left with different cams. I like cruising in the middle of the torque curve not at the beginning of it

[Ridgerunr]

The lifters and the 266 cams are coming out at 1000 miles. Going back with wood 408 cams and S&S lifters along with adjustable push rods

266 's come on strong at about 3 k
Really feel the power of this engine should come on around 1800 to 2000 so I want to move the torque curve to the left with different cams. I like cruising in the middle of the torque curve not at the beginning of it

  Enjoy