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[INDEPENDENT_1]

Go with the Evolution Industries Stage 1 Diamond Terminator clutch. They make parts for Barnett, Primo Rivera, AIM and others. Why not go straight to the source? Bullet proof clutch made from billet steel. Id also go with the Baker heavy duty throw-out bearing and Baker Attitude Adjuster. The Haydens dont like the power these S&S 124's put out. Also, call Darkhorse on the compensator. Theyre less money than the new SE Comp and He said the a couple weeks ago that they were aaaaalmost ready. They might be available by now. Evolution also offers a straight sprocket to replace the compensator but Ive got a welded S&S crank and the straight sprocket they offer, they claim guys are running them on their stock cranks without any issues and "guy love them" and have never had a scissored crank even stock crank from using their sprocket as a replacement for the clutch. Always here to help. Give me a call if I can answer more questions or help you save a few bux on anything.

[artanner1]

[artanner1]

Out with the old!! In with the new!!!!Now hurry up and wait...

[artanner1]

Thanks Independent 1....Great information!!!

[artanner1]

Steve,
Man back to chain, that take me back to when I used to ride dirt bikes, it was easier to work on!!!!! Looks like money going to get tight, only have $8,500 to work with...Bucket running dry!!!!!! not to mention my wife.....LOL

[INDEPENDENT_1]

I'd stay away from the Hayden with that much power but I do like them with motor that are little more mild than a 124.. What trap door is $500? JIMS? The Baker isnt as expensive and seems to be holding up great on the ones Ive installed. I have one laying here to install right now.

[hrdtail78]

Not a fan of the hayden either.  I would weld your stock one.  The Baker trap door is a nice unit.  Comes with ARP 12 points as well.

[Rooster]

What is wrong with the Hayden unit. I have one in my 07 with a Jim's 131 and it seems fine. Curious what can or is wrong with using one on a big motor?

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

Bigger engines tend to produce more low end tq along with the longer stroke will make the chain "bounce" and the spring tension is not enough and it bottoms out and then the chain gets loose slaps the inner. I have zero issues using the updated ( 2010) stock tensioner on the big builds.

[artanner1]

Evolution Industries web site for a  Stage 1 Diamond Terminator Clutch ev:1013-5011 $505.95
Scorpion Clutch,$456.00 Amazon               

[artanner1]

Motor should be here Monday.. After drilling the holes in the oil pan for the vent and return oil lines, then realized where will my oil temp sensor go? Any thoughts,
Thanks,
Allen

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

Well oil temp can be another hole that you drill and tap for the NTP sensor or install a T fitting.

[pat1]

I installed my oil temp sensor in a hole next to the drain plug. There was a plug with a hex head. I removed that plug and installed the sensor per the oil temp gauge instructions.

[artanner1]

Does the bottom section of the oil pan have enough meat to drill and tap? There looks like a good spot to the left where the supply/old sensor location was.

[bikerboy53]

Artanner1,
Another possible location for the oil temp sensor is at the oil cooler adapter. I have an Oil Bud's adapter that I took off when I put in the 124. The Oil Bud adapter is drilled and tapped for 1/8 NPT to allow relocating the temp sensor to that location -because the Bud's cooler is in the way of the "stock" oil temp sensor location. Since the Bud's cooler runs through the area where the new S&S oil lines run I had to take it off.

I'm thinking about putting the Oil Bud cooler adapter on so I can run my temp gauge again. I would have to run it with my Jagg oil cooler -I don't think it would be a problem, but I can't say for certain...

Or I might drill and tap the Jagg oil filter adapter.