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[Chief]

This last shot shows the OC adapter that is having to be clearanced. You can see the sensor up above the adapter, in the shadow. Since the BUBs bung comes out perpendicular to the pipe, the sensor points down at the adapter, and because the wide-band sensor is a good bit longer than the narrow-band sensor, there is a problem.

The best solution to the problem, is the beveled bung, so the chance of conflict with the adapter plate is minimized, regardless of what the MoCo does to the adapter.

I hope BuBs will make a revision to correct this, because I want a pair of their pipes!

Chief

[Fired00d]

Ok, I see what you mean now about position, and I wouldn't even try to guess why Bub/Rinehart would choose to put them in the place they did. [smiley=confused5.gif]

In this case it doesn't really matter about the MoCo changing parts around, but I would like to know why they did. This could be valuable information for those that own this year/model later when they want to replace/upgrade parts.

 [smiley=pumpkin.gif]
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 [smiley=fireman.gif]

[Chief]

Just did some web surfing for bungs.

If anyone is interested, in removing the Rinehart bung and putting in your own, you can get a 45 degree angled bung here:

http://www.srvperformance.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=270_274&products_id=954&zenid=88f8cf2fa056860d727e15d08e2fdea2

This way, you can get a set of Rineharts WITHOUT the bungs and get them welded in yourself, where they won't cause a problem.

Chief

[copout221]

Just did some web surfing for bungs.

If anyone is interested, in removing the Rinehart bung and putting in your own, you can get a 45 degree angled bung here:

http://www.srvperformance.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=270_274&products_id=954&zenid=88f8cf2fa056860d727e15d08e2fdea2

This way, you can get a set of Rineharts WITHOUT the bungs and get them welded in yourself, where they won't cause a problem.

Chief

There is NO way I am going to go to that extent to make these pipes work. I will just return the system and exchange them for another manufacturers product that works. RH should make good on this blunder or I will take my buisness elswhere and slam them on every motorcycle forum I am a member of. IMO they need to have a new header pipe shipped out to me that will correct this or have me send my existing pipe back for them to modify it. I shouldn't have to take their product to some muffler shop or welder to make it work properly. Especially not after spending $1600.00 on the pipes and Thundermax system. I hope some of you agree with me !!

[Midnight Rider]

The question begs to be asked, and answered by those more knowledgeable about these things than me...but, does the wide band sensor REQUIRE a perpendicular orientation in the pipe since the sensing ability/accuracy would seem to be more critical?   [smiley=nixweiss.gif]

[copout221]

The question begs to be asked, and answered by those more knowledgeable about these things than me...but, does the wide band sensor REQUIRE a perpendicular orientation in the pipe since the sensing ability/accuracy would seem to be more critical?   [smiley=nixweiss.gif]

[smiley=embarassed.gif] [smiley=embarassed.gif]

[SilverDawg]

There is NO way I am going to go to that extent to make these pipes work. I will just return the system and exchange them for another manufacturers product that works. RH should make good on this blunder or I will take my buisness elswhere and slam them on every motorcycle forum I am a member of. IMO they need to have a new header pipe shipped out to me that will correct this or have me send my existing pipe back for them to modify it. I shouldn't have to take their product to some muffler shop or welder to make it work properly. Especially not after spending $1600.00 on the pipes and Thundermax system. I hope some of you agree with me !!

Copout, I agree with  you.  For what you spent on those pipes, you are going through WAY too much grief!  I would call them and politely ask for them to make this situation right.   As someone else mentioned earlier, they were either in a hurry to get these pipes modified to attempt to fit the 110 or you got a bum set of pipes shipped to you. Either way, it is not your fault.  Their product is not what it is supposed to be and now they have a very dedicated customer who is having severe issues.  I hope it all works out for you and we will all be watching and listening to how they treat you and your issue with their product.

[110tHunDer]

 
If stock sensors would fit in there OK, I don't look for Rinehart to be real sympathetic.  After all, that was the story they gave on the brake pedal.  

[Twolanerider]

If stock sensors would fit in there OK, I don't look for Rinehart to be real sympathetic.  After all, that was the story they gave on the brake pedal.  

Got to agree with Brian.  If the stock parts would have fit that's where their responsibility ends.  It's not Zippers job to make sure their parts work with Bub's pipes.  It's not Bub's job to make sure their parts work with Zipper's aftermarket stuff.  The OE configuration is their template.  Anything beyond that is up to us.  Any help they give above and beyond stock configurations to accommodate other third party parts is to be appreciated and applauded.  But it can hardly be expected.

Granted, after things have been on the market for awhile and everyone sees everyone elses stuff those things they see more commonly will also get accounted for and adjusted to.  But that takes time.  The T-Max's autotune package is new stuff.  Bub nor V&H nor likely anyone else is building their pipes with Zippers in mind; they've been humping it to do with Harley in mind since the 07 product releases.

I personally can't fault the vendors on this one.  They can't know what we've got, what we've changed or be expected to account for all of our changes.  This stuff is as much (or more) art as it is science sometimes.  Making thing play together is just part of the task.

C.O., it's not my position to suggest what you'll feel most comfortable doing or what you might think is fair.  Were it my own bike, however, I'd just fix the damned thing at this point.  The fix is, after all, a simple one.

The pipe has to come on and off at least once more no matter what you do.  If you send it off for replacemet you're down time, shipping costs and likely a couple weeks frustration waiting for stuff that still might or might not be just what you need when you get it home.  Alternatively the pipe could come off after breakfast some Saturday, you could haul it in town to a muffler shop, leave it with him while you get a sandwich, come back right after lunch and put the bike back together that afternoon and ride it to dinner that night.  Total expense won't be but a tiny bit more than the freight cost doing it the other way.  And you don't have to worry about it or fight the problem anymore.  Sometimes it really is best to just declare victory and move on.

[copout221]

 Well it can't hurt to ask RH to relocate the bung for me which I think will be a waste of breath. Someone else mentioned removing the pipe and heating up the area around the bung. After it was heated up I could tap another O2 sensor or whatever I can get in there with a mallet to give me that extra angle for this to fit. However, I don't know if this would work or cause more damage. It probably would not hurt if I was planning on taking the pipe to a muffler shop to have a new bung installed !! Just another suggestion.

[Twolanerider]

Well it can't hurt to ask RH to relocate the bung for me which I think will be a waste of breath. Someone else mentioned removing the pipe and heating up the area around the bung. After it was heated up I could tap another O2 sensor or whatever I can get in there with a mallet to give me that extra angle for this to fit. However, I don't know if this would work or cause more damage. It probably would not hurt if I was planning on taking the pipe to a muffler shop to have a new bung installed !! Just another suggestion.

C.O., the heating and bending you mention is something I'd thought of before but didn't pursue as it didn't sound like you had a torch available.  If you've got (or got access to) a little oxy-acetylene torch that could also be a potentially easy solution right there in the garage.  If RH doesn't offer an easy solution this might be worth considering too.

It looks like just a few degrees change in that angle will make all the difference in the world to you.  The pipe should still come off but this might be your easiest solution of all.

The bung is much thicker than the pipe.  So you'd not have to worry about the bung deforming to bend the pipe (if you did you could screw a spark plug in it before bending things, one common spark plug size is the same size/thread as o2 sensors).  Get the pipe itself cherry red around the bung, give the bung a good sharp strike or two to raise it up a bit, and you could very easily be home free.

[copout221]

C.O., the heating and bending you mention is something I'd thought of before but didn't pursue as it didn't sound like you had a torch available.  If you've got (or got access to) a little oxy-acetylene torch that could also be a potentially easy solution right there in the garage.  If RH doesn't offer an easy solution this might be worth considering too.

It looks just a few degrees change in that angle will make all the difference in the world to you.  The pipe should still come off but this might be your easiest solution of all.

The bung is much thicker than the pipe.  So you'd not have to worry about the bung deforming to bend the pipe (if you did you could screw a spark plug in it before bending things, one common spark plug size is the same size/thread as o2 sensors).  Get the pipe itself cherry red around the bung, give the bung a good sharp strike or two to raise it up a bit, and you could very easily be home free.

I give that a try if RH says there is nothing they can do for me. Do you think a mapp gas torch (very hot usually used for plumbing) will work ? Otherwise, I can always get access to an oxy torch.

[Twolanerider]

I give that a try if RH says there is nothing they can do for me. Do you think a mapp gas torch (very hot usually used for plumbing) will work ? Otherwise, I can always get access to an oxy torch.

C.O., simply can't answer for you as it's a tool I've not used.  Have my old oxy torch around for cutting and for these kinds of heat-em-up jobs and basic puddle welding when necessary.  

Just don't know if one of those small hand held torhes get hot enough.  All we're doing is slightly bending some relatively thin metal.  Nothing hard about that.  Quite frankly a good sharp blow on the bung would likely bend it enough without heat.  But I'd feel better getting it warm.  You'll just want to see the pipe start to charry up and become a bit malleable.  You'll be able to tell pretty much by looking at it if it's hot enough.


Hopefully RH will tell you they've run in to something similar and will fix you right up.  If not though it sounds like you've got a not too difficult alternative solution waiting for you.

[copout221]

 Thanks Twolanerider !! I appreciate your help  [smiley=drink.gif]

[Chief]

Got to agree with Brian.  If the stock parts would have fit that's where their responsibility ends.  It's not Zippers job to make sure their parts work with Bub's pipes.  It's not Bub's job to make sure their parts work with Zipper's aftermarket stuff.  [highlight]The OE configuration is their template.[/highlight]  Anything beyond that is up to us.  Any help they give above and beyond stock configurations to accommodate other third party parts is to be appreciated and applauded.  But it can hardly be expected.

Don,

I agree with you that it is not the vendor's responsibility to make their stuff work with every possible combination of parts. There isn't any way they could, or should, try that. But if they do use the OE configuration as their template, then they should at least get it close to matching the OE config.

This one ain't even close enough for government work.

Chief