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[Mach]

 2011 cvo convertible. My rear brake will automatically come on.  I would ride a few miles and my brakes will come on.  I will also loose all pressure to my foot pedal brake.  Eventually the pressure will come back.  I also noticed I could not put on my curse. Its like something is telling my bike to brake.

The dealer has changed out everything.  They are lost.  They told me the brake fluid is boiling causing the caliper to close.

Has anyone heard of this?

[MrSurly]

It sounds like the rubber hose is bad. I've not seen this happen on a bike but have seen the same result in cars. The inner liner or tube inside the hose can fail and the hose can become restricted and act like a check valve, preventing the fluid from returning to the master.
Second guess is that the master cylinder piston is not fully returning to its released position.


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[tdkkart]

Cruise doesn't engage........maybe because it thinks the brakes are on already??
Is your brake lite on all the time??

Check the rear brake light switch with an ohm meter.....shorted?? 
Means there's residual pressure in the line.

If there's slight pressure in the line the rear brake will drag, which will eventually heat it up and make it drag more
and more till it locks.

The only way you get residual pressure is if you have a plug somewhere, master cylinder, hose or caliper.

[Mach]

Thanks.  I requested a list of replaced items.  Master cylinder was replaced.   Something is pressuring the system.  I think water would do this.

They have the bike on a dyno stand running without brake pads and see the caliper closing with in 4 minutes. Something is pressuring the system.  I'll ask about hoses.

I asked for the list because I'm calling the motor company Monday.  I called before and got "have the dealer call us"  after given them the vin # they told a bunch of things the dealer replaced. 

Thanks again!

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[grc]

I love the title of this thread.  Once again, we have a clueless Harley dealership.  At least this one admitted it.

A motorcycle brake system is pretty simple, in the overall scheme of things, and the basics have remained the same for decades.  Perhaps you need to find a much better dealership, or even an independent since I'm pretty sure a 2011 model would be well beyond the factory warranty by now.

The system is being pressurized, which applies the brakes and trips the brake light pressure switch.  That is why your cruise won't engage.  There is a pretty short distance from the master cylinder to the caliper, and if this dealer can't figure out which component is pressurizing the fluid, may the lord help them if someone brings them a really complicated problem.  Btw, since the bike has ABS, I would hope they checked that system for codes as well as proper operation and routing of the brake lines away from heat sources.  The 2011 model has separate systems for front and rear ABS, so a fault in the rear wouldn't necessarily affect the front.  Whatever, they need to follow a logical diagnostic path, not just replace one part here, another part there, etc.  Of course there aren't that many parts involved, so I guess they could just replace everything and hope they fix it.  The trick is getting someone to pay for all those parts.

Jerry

[ltank]

I have ABS brakes in my F150 that would intermittently lock up any rotor it wanted at any time. Had to replace calipers, pad and rotors. I simply pulled the fuse and the brakes have been fine ever since.

[sadunbar]

Thanks.  I requested a list of replaced items.  Master cylinder was replaced.   Something is pressuring the system.  I think water would do this.

They have the bike on a dyno stand running without brake pads and see the caliper closing with in 4 minutes. Something is pressuring the system.  I'll ask about hoses.

I asked for the list because I'm calling the motor company Monday.  I called before and got "have the dealer call us"  after given them the vin # they told a bunch of things the dealer replaced. 

Thanks again!

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It would seem to be a reasonable test to disable the ABS system to see if the problem persists, preferably while still testing on the dyno.  A flap internal to a rubber brake line (acting as a check valve) can retain pressure to the caliper if the problem occurred after pressing on the brake pedal to activate the rear brake.  But it is unlikely a flap internal to a rubber brake line could be the source of this problem.  Heat alone should not generate enough residual brake pressure to move the pistons within four minutes of running time (and be trapped by an internally failing brake line).  I would first focus on troubleshooting for a fault within the ABS system, starting with electrically disabling the system.

[Twolanerider]

While there is always the potential or even likelihood I'm wrong everything about the your original description of this problems suggests an ABS problem.  A failure within a brake line might hold pressure once engage but would not engage on its own; nor would anything else in the system.  Has the dealership not checked for codes nor even just disabled the ABS system as part of their troubleshooting?

[Twolanerider]

It would seem to be a reasonable test to disable the ABS system to see if the problem persists, preferably while still testing on the dyno.  A flap internal to a rubber brake line (acting as a check valve) can retain pressure to the caliper if the problem occurred after pressing on the brake pedal to activate the rear brake.  But it is unlikely a flap internal to a rubber brake line could be the source of this problem.  Heat alone should not generate enough residual brake pressure to move the pistons within four minutes of running time (and be trapped by an internally failing brake line).  I would first focus on troubleshooting for a fault within the ABS system, starting with electrically disabling the system.

Yeah, what Scott said ^.

[Mach]

I told the dealership to give me a write up. I know the ABS parts where replaced.

It really does blow my mind they can't fix it and Harley tech support is fully aware of the issue. Yes it's out of warranty.  I told Harley it's your design,  You built it and your name is all over it. It shouldn't be this complicated.

No clue how to approach payment for something that's not fixed

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[Road Dad]

I would be very surprised if the ABS in anyway pressurized the system. It's design to relieve pressure and not apply on your model.

Like others said the system is (or should be pretty simple). Master cylinder, short hose and the caliper. If it pressurize itself on the Dyno my best guess is master cylinder problem. That's the only part that can generate pressure to the rear caliper.

[Lever]

I had this problem last year when the cooled down  ...I had both front and rear  brakes
however after riding  few miles ..I would go to apply my rear brake and the pedal went all the way down no brakes  then I also noticed it took more throttle  to sustain the same speed and the motor felt like it was laboring  ...kinda like going up a steep hill
after replacing my rear rotor,pads and master cylinder  finally figured out the problem
my exhaust is V&H propipe   the front heatshield  the one that runs next to brake pedal,
 when the exhaust and shield get hot and expand it was pushing/rubbing my pedal ever so slightly but just enough that after a few miles I would lose rear brakes ...I will try to post a pic of my burnt up rear rotor for ya

[Lever]

Picture of rotor

[Lever]

btw it was those cheap junk clamps that hold the shields  mine I thought where tight and they where when cold but hot they would losen up  so I replaced all of them and problem fixed

[Mach]

That's exactly what is happening.  I even have a v&v pro pipe. I've had it in the bike sense 2011. I love that pipe.  Weird that it would all the sudden do this.

What was the fix? Anything is possible.

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