Hey Gents...
I've read through quite a bit of this thread, as well as others, and I'm now hoping you'll humor me with some answers to a few questions. I've learned a lot on this web site and really do appreciate the high level of technical knowledge being shared here. I'd just like to confirm some of the information I've read, and tailor it to my concerns.
My '07 SEUC is still sitting at the dealer, waiting for me to return from Iraq, then mail it to Okinawa. I don't have access to tuners on Okinawa, so I'm looking for the best possible DIY solution to several problems. My SEUC and I may not make it back stateside for a couple more years.
1. She has only 9 miles on her--I've owned her since Sept. After reading different experiences here, I'm very concerned about this 110 burning itself up--mainly because I'll have her so far from home. (There is a dealer nearby, I know they'll honor the HD warranty, but I'm not sure how far they'll go to work with me.)
2. I'll still have 18 months of warranty left, once I get to start riding her. With the problem of #1, I think I need to keep warranty in tact.
3. Part of my decision to buy this thing was based on the advertised stock torque/HP numbers--not knowing they were engine numbers vice rear-wheel numbers. I'd like to get my 110 to break 100 lbft of torque, at the lower RPM range.
4. Without a dyno tuner available, I need to be able to get the A/F in a decent range. I'm familiar with tuning the PC III.
5. Based on experience with my 02 Ultra, the driver's seat can get pretty hot. I'd like to increase the comfort level by reducing the heat in that rear cylinder area.
I'm pretty well sold on this combination, to start with; Thunder Max/Auto Tune, Vance and Hines Ovals (or maybe Hooker slip-ons) and V&H True Duals and Power Pac air cleaner. Based on what I've read here, this should get me into triple digits for torque, allow me to tune for a better A/F ratio, and reduce the heat issue.
Okay, my questions for the experienced audience:
a. Should I make changes as soon as I get access to the bike, or should I go ahead and break it in as stock--to the 500 mile mark?, to the 1000 mark? It gets hot and sticky in Okinawa. Engine temp is a concern--but so is proper break-in.
b. I'm sold on the TM/AT configuration. I understand this replaces the stock ECM and sensors. If I have a warranty issue, can I just restore the stock ECM/sensors with no one the wiser? A couple of messages spoke of the ECU keeping check on hours running vs miles driven. It's possible, but is it true?
c. Will this configuration significantly reduce the temps under the driver's seat?
d. I've read here about the TM causing problems with the ACR and fuses being blown in the past (and I think someone said something about a problem with turn signals not cancelling?). Have all these issues been solved for the current TM, for my 110? Are there any known problems, related to the 07 110's, with the latest TM/AT set up? Is the ACR function working correctly yet?
Sorry this turned into such a long post...
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Charles...