Getting back to Hoist's original question about measuring runout on both ends of the crank -I think it could be a necessity. On my bike the dealer measured .009" of runout on the pinion end of the crank. Not good, but not bad enough to qualify for a new crankshaft. Then they took a measurement on the compensator end and found .020" of runout. The Mo Co authorized replacement of the crankshaft, cylinders, and rings but no new engine. When they got the crank out and measured it on a truing stand the maximum runout they found was .014".
I think Hoist is on the right track to have the runout checked on both ends of the crank because they won't necessarily be the same. On the other hand it doesn't look like we can just add the two runout measurements together to get the total -at least based on the limited information from the measurements of my old crank.
BTW the new crank showed .001" runout on the truing stand before installation. I had the new crank balanced, but no Timken conversion or welding. The dealer said any other modifications to the engine would void the w.....ty, and while I would really like to take a route similar to Hoist's I'm not ready to foot the bill for any future w.....ty problems. It will be interesting to see if the new crank stays at .001" runout, or if it will change as we put more miles on it.
Score so far:
Head gaskets replaced 3 times
Both cylinders replaced 2 times
Rings replaced 2 times
Crankshaft replaced once
Approx. 300 miles since latest work, and have oil weeping at base of rear cylinder.
The bike has a little over 10k miles total, and about 10 months left on the original w.....ty.
I love my FLHRSE3, but the engine problems are starting to get a little depressing!
