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[porthole]

I wanted to pull the bearings off the cams I had laying around as well as the set I am doing now. Couldn't justify the $120 Jim's tool to do this so I looked in the tool box.
This tool pulled the bearing off with ease. Probably any similar puller would. You throw the bearing away anyway....................

[grandpadoc]

I have to chime in here on the power loss with the kit install. There is nothing in the kit or its function that would cause it UNLESS something is incorectly installed. It is very easy to get off a tooth on the chain drive. Another posibility that has not been mentioned here is the oil sumping. If the pump to case o-ring was not install properly the engine will wet sump and this will cause a severe power loss.

Thanks for the chime in Jim, I guess we should have started a new post on the this kit since its probably going to be used a lot for folks who aren't interested in changing cams on there stock bikes. I think you have uncovered all the pitfalls and I guess its up to the skill of the tech to make it work and I will confront my tech with your post. I have to work with techs all time in my job and even though they are certified to do things for me some procedures are not in their comfort zone and not done well. It seems with this kit there are enough opportunities to mess up that it may not be worth taking the chance and just replace the spring tensioners. If you want to take a little more of a risk with the installer maybe the gear drive would be next best because like you say its very easy to get a tooth off on the chain drive. I've seen some tear downs on newer bikes for cam changes and it looks like the newer hydraulic tensioners are holding up well.
At this point I'm kind of looking forward to the mild performance improvement with the 510G. I'm sure with the bargaining chip this site has given me it will cost effective and in the long run...no more tensioners.  Doc

[hd-dude]

Thanks for the chime in Jim, I guess we should have started a new post on the this kit since its probably going to be used a lot for folks who aren't interested in changing cams on there stock bikes. I think you have uncovered all the pitfalls and I guess its up to the skill of the tech to make it work and I will confront my tech with your post. I have to work with techs all time in my job and even though they are certified to do things for me some procedures are not in their comfort zone and not done well. It seems with this kit there are enough opportunities to mess up that it may not be worth taking the chance and just replace the spring tensioners. If you want to take a little more of a risk with the installer maybe the gear drive would be next best because like you say its very easy to get a tooth off on the chain drive. I've seen some tear downs on newer bikes for cam changes and it looks like the newer hydraulic tensioners are holding up well.
At this point I'm kind of looking forward to the mild performance improvement with the 510G. I'm sure with the bargaining chip this site has given me it will cost effective and in the long run...no more tensioners.  Doc

Doc,
I am sure its in here but What engine are you using the 510G in? I seem to remeber this was a 96" you were doing?

[grandpadoc]

Doc,
I am sure its in here but What engine are you using the 510G in? I seem to remeber this was a 96" you were doing?

I have a 00 SERG 95" stock engine. I looked at the S&S website and they recommended the 510 for compression < 9 with stock springs.  Doc

[103_RK]

I changed (did the work myself) my 03 SERK over to the new Hydraulic tensioners using the HD Hybrid cam plate w/ oil pump.  I stuck with the SE 253 cams as I am happy with the performance and being happy, I was afraid I would lose some at the lower rpm where I do most of my riding.  I did replace the cams with new ones that I was able to get cheap on ebay.  I used S & S adjustable pushrods.  Everything went well.  I also changed the inner primary to a chrome cover & added an automatic chain tensioner.  I changed the swing arm bushings & shaft to a Glide Pro stabilizer.  I also added the Glide Pro front motor mount.  I rode it for approx. 80 miles yesterday, runs and feels great.

[spydglide]

Sounds great 103_RK.  How many miles on your '03?  Tell me more about the glide pro ft. motor mount.  tks. spyder

[103_RK]

About 30,600 miles on bike.  I only rode it once since installing everything.  The motor shakes less than it used to with the stock motormount & bushings.  Installation of the glide-pro bushings & mount went well.  I was able to leave the rear axle tight, didn't even have to adjust anything after.  Glide Pro has a video which is long and show it done without loosening the rear axle.

[ccr]

I changed (did the work myself) my 03 SERK over to the new Hydraulic tensioners using the HD Hybrid cam plate w/ oil pump.  I stuck with the SE 253 cams as I am happy with the performance and being happy, I was afraid I would lose some at the lower rpm where I do most of my riding.  I did replace the cams with new ones that I was able to get cheap on ebay.  I used S & S adjustable pushrods.  Everything went well.  I also changed the inner primary to a chrome cover & added an automatic chain tensioner.  I changed the swing arm bushings & shaft to a Glide Pro stabilizer.  I also added the Glide Pro front motor mount.  I rode it for approx. 80 miles yesterday, runs and feels great.

Sounds fantastic.  How long did it take you to do the work?

[103_RK]

  I was doing several things at once and had to wait for some of the items to come in, so I took several days.  Mrs. WE, you are one of the people who made me think I needed to do this.  When I saw how your tensioners went and caused all of that problem, I figured it was a matter of time.  Mine were less than half worn,  I think I could have went quite a ways further.  I am still happy to not need to worry about cam chain tensioners though.

[ccr]

  I was doing several things at once and had to wait for some of the items to come in, so I took several days.  Mrs. WE, you are one of the people who made me think I needed to do this.  When I saw how your tensioners went and caused all of that problem, I figured it was a matter of time.  Mine were less than half worn,  I think I could have went quite a ways further.  I am still happy to not need to worry about cam chain tensioners though.

Buddy, I am sorry if my problems caused you concern, but am happy that you are happy to not have to worry about this problem.  I have the same thing to do to my bike.  I have not put on as many miles as usual and so am not too worried right now, but am trying to save my pennies to have what you did done to my bike this winter.  See ya around Richmond.   

[103_RK]

Didn't mean to imply your problem caused any worry, just that with similar engines, I expect similar problems.  I have worried about cam chain tensioners long enough to make me spend the money for the repair. 

[spydglide]

Didn't mean to imply your problem caused any worry, just that with similar engines, I expect similar problems.  I have worried about cam chain tensioners long enough to make me spend the money for the repair. 

Same here.  Changing at 60,500miles.  Tensioners shoes still had life in 'em, but  over 3/4 worn away.  spyder

[Gettinold]

Same here.  Changing at 60,500miles.  Tensioners shoes still had life in 'em, but  over 3/4 worn away.  spyder

Id say you gots your $ worth out them.  or you been pushing it around. 

[spydglide]

Id say you gots your $ worth out them.  or you been pushing it around. 

Too old to 'push'... ...you know how that goes.  har!  spyder

[grandpadoc]

I picked up my bike today after the S&S gear drive install and after riding around for a couple hours I'm very impressed. It seems like it has it's old low range back and a nice mid range improvement at about 2800 through 3500 with the 510 cams. If anyone wants the new SE cam plate/hydraulic conversion and oil pump let me know as it will be on e-bay soon. I'll even throw in the original cams from the 00 SERG. The cams have less than 20K on them and the plate and oil pump only about 10 miles. Doc