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[trwtow]

like others have said bleed clutch took all of 5 minutes shifts better easier to find neutral and doesnt try to crawl forward when stopped. no seat gap yet at 700 miles no bumpers.

[dustingaunder]

I was having some strange clutch issues today.  The friction zone seems to be moving around on it, it seemed more all or none than usual, and I had to kill it to get it into neutral when I put it back in my garage this afternoon.  I might have the dealer take a look at bleeding it if this persists.  Not going into neutral was pissing me off and I was hot from riding with my leather coat on.  This ATGATT thing it tough but I'm trying.

[trwtow]

I was having some strange clutch issues today.  The friction zone seems to be moving around on it, it seemed more all or none than usual, and I had to kill it to get it into neutral when I put it back in my garage this afternoon.  I might have the dealer take a look at bleeding it if this persists.  Not going into neutral was pissing me off and I was hot from riding with my leather coat on.  This ATGATT thing it tough but I'm trying.

5 minutes a little dot 4 and 1/4 in wrench no dealer needed they told me there all like that so i just did it myself too easy neutral is now a breeze   what does atgatt mean

[Racerdj]

Are any of these problems listed being addressed with current deliveries?

[dustingaunder]

5 minutes a little dot 4 and 1/4 in wrench no dealer needed they told me there all like that so i just did it myself too easy neutral is now a breeze   what does atgatt mean

Be careful with that dot 4. It will bubble the paint quick.  I can wrench on this but I figure it is under warranty so I'll let them deal with it. 

All the gear all the time.

[sugarbear20]

can't get the smile off my face

[JCZ]

I was having some strange clutch issues today.  The friction zone seems to be moving around on it, it seemed more all or none than usual, and I had to kill it to get it into neutral when I put it back in my garage this afternoon.  I might have the dealer take a look at bleeding it if this persists.  Not going into neutral was pissing me off and I was hot from riding with my leather coat on.  This ATGATT thing it tough but I'm trying.

Yep, sounds like the clutch needs to be bled.

The dealrship will probably bleed it till the first pump or two of the lever with no more air bubbles.  And that's where the problem lies.  They need to just keep bleeding because after five or six more pumps of the clutch lever, more air will come out.  It takes awhile and way past the point of normal bleeding (as in bleeding brakes) for it to be done thoroughly.

[grc]

Yep, sounds like the clutch needs to be bled.

The dealrship will probably bleed it till the first pump or two of the lever with no more air bubbles.  And that's where the problem lies.  They need to just keep bleeding because after five or six more pumps of the clutch lever, more air will come out.  It takes awhile and way past the point of normal bleeding (as in bleeding brakes) for it to be done thoroughly.

 


Jerry

[dustingaunder]

Yep, sounds like the clutch needs to be bled.

The dealrship will probably bleed it till the first pump or two of the lever with no more air bubbles.  And that's where the problem lies.  They need to just keep bleeding because after five or six more pumps of the clutch lever, more air will come out.  It takes awhile and way past the point of normal bleeding (as in bleeding brakes) for it to be done thoroughly.

Thanks.  I did get it out again last evening after my post and I didn't have any of the issues I had before but it wasn't as hot as it was earlier in the day.  I wonder if the warmer temps that I road in earlier could have increased the problems with air in the lines.

[grandpadoc]

Read through this and it might answer the question about the sixth gear light. Doc

                                                   http://onlyharley.net/2010_model.pdf

[JCZ]

Thanks.  I did get it out again last evening after my post and I didn't have any of the issues I had before but it wasn't as hot as it was earlier in the day.  I wonder if the warmer temps that I road in earlier could have increased the problems with air in the lines.

Interesting that you considered that.  I thought the same thing after I bled it the first time.  Seemed to be fine while it was cool.  But a couple days later, when it got hot out.....clutch issues came back.  Could have been coincidence....the air could have eventually found it's way back to the top.

When I took it to Jim (hd-dude on this forum), he told me that it's a normal situation on the hydraulic clutches and that you have to bleed it way beyond what you'd normally think is done.  I then watched him bleed it over and over and over. 

Several times throughout that process, I thought it was done and there wouldn't be anymore air.  He'd just keep pumping the lever and twisting and untwisting the bleed screw.  Eventually, more air would come up again.  I thought he was wasting brake fluid (he topped off the resavoir several times)......but in the end, he knew what he was doing.

[Sapper6]

BLUF: Make sure you really bleed your hydraulic clutch!

You would have to go back to probably August or Septembers threads to see how many people had problems associated with an improperly bled hydraulic clutch, and not just on the SESG.  I noticed it on so many peoples bikes that it is on my list of 1st things to do before I ride my bike.  There were even a slew of people who said they requested, or even watched the dealer do it, but still had issues.  Likely it's because it's not the same as bleeding breaks, and you really have to keep at it.  Others have mentioned that HD's not having problems with hydraulic clutches on their other bikes which have had the hydraulic clutch for years, well...   CVO's are not built in the same manner as the other production HD bikes.

[grandpadoc]

I have a problem with my cruise control cutting out and my 6 speed indicator light not coming on.  Has anyone else had either of these issues?

An interesting read.  Doc

http://onlyharley.net/2010_model.pdf

[grc]

Thanks.  I did get it out again last evening after my post and I didn't have any of the issues I had before but it wasn't as hot as it was earlier in the day.  I wonder if the warmer temps that I road in earlier could have increased the problems with air in the lines.

As all the parts get warmer, you will notice the clutch engagement point will be slightly further from the grip than it is when the parts were cold.  That's a normal occurrence, and wouldn't create the issues you mentioned. 

What fluids are you running in the primary and the trans?  The choices you make for those items will make a difference when things get really hot.  If you still have SYN 3 in those holes, I would suggest changing to more appropriate fluids.  I've personally experimented with all sort of lubes in the primary over the years, and I currently run Mobil-1 Synthetic Automatic Trans Fluid.  Best stuff so far for a smoother operating clutch.  Never an issue with neutral, and it even eliminated that clunk the first time I shift into first gear after a cold start.  In the trans, I run Redline Shockproof Heavy, but any good gear oil would be an improvement over the motor oil.

Regardless, based on my own personal experience with the hydraulic clutch plus what the other's on this site have mentioned, I would strongly suggest you either have the dealer thoroughly flush the system, or do it yourself. 


Jerry

[grc]

BLUF: Make sure you really bleed your hydraulic clutch!

You would have to go back to probably August or Septembers threads to see how many people had problems associated with an improperly bled hydraulic clutch, and not just on the SESG.  I noticed it on so many peoples bikes that it is on my list of 1st things to do before I ride my bike.  There were even a slew of people who said they requested, or even watched the dealer do it, but still had issues.  Likely it's because it's not the same as bleeding breaks, and you really have to keep at it.  Others have mentioned that HD's not having problems with hydraulic clutches on their other bikes which have had the hydraulic clutch for years, well...   CVO's are not built in the same manner as the other production HD bikes.

The only H-D other than the CVO's that has a hydraulic clutch is the V-Rod, if memory serves me correctly.  And those bikes are built on an assembly line that is set up for that system.  The CVO's, on the other hand, are slapped together in a separate area in the plant that is most likely not equipped with proper evacuate and fill equipment for the clutch.

Brake systems are normally filled in an assembly plant using automated equipment that first draws a vacuum on the system and then pumps fluid in.  When done right, this results in no air in the system and no manual bleeding being necessary.  I'm willing to bet that you won't find that sort of system for the clutch in the area where these CVO's are assembled.


Jerry