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Author Topic: 2011.5 FLHTCUSE6  (Read 41352 times)

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9 1/2 Beers

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Re: 2011.5 FLHTCUSE6
« Reply #210 on: February 28, 2011, 12:36:09 PM »

More Pic's  ;D
More pic's  :drink:

 Did I ask for more Pic's ?

 PLEASE ?

 Marty

 Q:  Is the seat comfortable  :nixweiss:
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Re: 2011.5 FLHTCUSE6
« Reply #211 on: February 28, 2011, 12:50:50 PM »

Most of the time you are going to look at this bike and just see cobalt blue and black.  As you can see in the photo below, you get a glimmer of metal flake in the tour pack, but unless you're in the sun and close, you see blue and black.

Same with the Black Ember, at least on the SERGU...unless the bike is out in the sun, you'd think it was just black.  I'm assuming the Red SEUC would be the same, except that the Black Ember is more dominant on it than the SERGU.  The one I saw at the local dealer looked "classy", IMO...certainly not overdone with regards to the metalflake.  If you like a blue bike, it's about as good as it gets.
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Re: 2011.5 FLHTCUSE6
« Reply #212 on: February 28, 2011, 02:17:48 PM »

I need to get with the chrome consultant and he's out until Tuesday.  I guess it depends on when they can get the components in, installed, and get the dyno work done. 

The dealer agreed to dyno a new motor????? As a rule no dealer will dyno until 5000k. This site clearing define the concerns of the 110 and a good part of the failures is poor break-in periods.   

It is OK to install a race tuner and set the map to the bikes configuration (pipes, header, air intake, etc.) until the bike as ran through the break in period.
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16HD117

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Re: 2011.5 FLHTCUSE6
« Reply #213 on: February 28, 2011, 02:31:26 PM »

The dealer agreed to dyno a new motor????? As a rule no dealer will dyno until 5000k. This site clearing define the concerns of the 110 and a good part of the failures is poor break-in periods.  

It is OK to install a race tuner and set the map to the bikes configuration (pipes, header, air intake, etc.) until the bike as ran through the break in period.

Thats a little high.  Had mine dynoed at 800 miles.
« Last Edit: February 28, 2011, 02:34:17 PM by 11hd110 »
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Re: 2011.5 FLHTCUSE6
« Reply #214 on: February 28, 2011, 02:40:15 PM »

I am going to ask the question and get confirmation from the dealership.  I had at least one tech that told me that the dyno tuning process is a good way to break in the engine.  I've also waited for the upgrades and dyno tuning at the 1000 mile service.  
« Last Edit: February 28, 2011, 02:42:43 PM by PHAZE »
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rkpultrase

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Re: 2011.5 FLHTCUSE6
« Reply #215 on: February 28, 2011, 03:33:56 PM »

Thats a little high.  Had mine dynoed at 800 miles.


This is a subject that each individual will have to come to terms with. As we all know part of the break-in period is allowing the different metals to heat up and cool down during the break in procedure. Red lining a motor for 2-3 hours is not my choice for a new motor. Just saying.

To get a good idea at the amount of heat that is generated during a dyno process is to start with new oil and when finished look at the color of the oil afterwards. A motors worst enemy is heat.

After all they are only a Harley and all you should expect is good performance and not a race machine. The 1st one to the fininish line is not always the winner.

PHAZE good luck with the new bike.
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16HD117

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Re: 2011.5 FLHTCUSE6
« Reply #216 on: February 28, 2011, 03:47:28 PM »

The dealer agreed to dyno a new motor????? As a rule no dealer will dyno until 5000k. This site clearing define the concerns of the 110 and a good part of the failures is poor break-in periods.   

It is OK to install a race tuner and set the map to the bikes configuration (pipes, header, air intake, etc.) until the bike as ran through the break in period.

Let me be a little more blunt.  That number is BS!
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PHAZE

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Re: 2011.5 FLHTCUSE6
« Reply #217 on: February 28, 2011, 04:33:47 PM »

I'm no gear head and usually operate with "If you don't know your jewels, know your jeweler" kind of attitude.  I've had more than one bike dyno tuned and one was after some break-in miles and one was before I picked the bike up at the dealer.  This was the same dealer on both bikes, so I guess that some dealers will dyno a bike without the break-in miles or after break-in miles.  If I have a home town dealer that I'm satisfied with and they know that I'm going to be getting all of my service done with them, it would seem to be in their best interest to do what would create the most reliable engine for me or would it . . . 

. . . could they intentionally create service issues for me so that I would need to visit the dealership more ofter?  Even if there is warranty work required on the bike, they still have me in the dealership and I'm usually going to buy something while I'm there.  I can see a conspiracy developing here.

I've got a tech at the dealership that I trust.  He's the most qualified guy at Bumpus and I think that he's a good dyno guy.  I am going to press to see if he'd prefer the break-in miles before the dyno tuning, but I would probably look at just getting it done at the 1000 mile service as a matter of convenience (while I'm going to have the bike there anyway). 

This may not be the right thread for this discussion, but I do appreciate the input.  When you've got a new baby, you do want to make sure that you've started off on the right path as you nurture it to adulthood!
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ultrafxr

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Re: 2011.5 FLHTCUSE6
« Reply #218 on: February 28, 2011, 06:03:42 PM »

The dealer agreed to dyno a new motor????? As a rule no dealer will dyno until 5000k. This site clearing define the concerns of the 110 and a good part of the failures is poor break-in periods.   

It is OK to install a race tuner and set the map to the bikes configuration (pipes, header, air intake, etc.) until the bike as ran through the break in period.
When the original motor in my '07 cuse2 failed at 24k the tech did a dyno tune on the new motor right after he installed it and before I picked the bike up.  Absolutely no problems and does not burn any oil.  From my personal experience I think breaking them in too gently is more of a problem than breaking them in too hard.  When I've broken in the last three bikes I've had I get them up to operating temp and wind them up in third gear then back off the throttle and let the engine brake them down to slower speed and rpms and then do it again several times.  Then I just ride 'em.  Had no problems.  Oh and by the way I've changed over from Syn 3 to Mobil 1 well before 1k.  As far as I can tell it has no detrimental effect on break in. 
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PHAZE

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Re: 2011.5 FLHTCUSE6
« Reply #219 on: February 28, 2011, 06:27:27 PM »

OK, back to the subject of this thread.  How about that 2011.5 CVO Ultra Classic FLHTCUSE6 in TWILIGHT BLUE & CANDY COBALT?  What a beautiful bike!  I think that I have to have one!!!
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DOOFUS

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Re: 2011.5 FLHTCUSE6
« Reply #220 on: February 28, 2011, 06:38:27 PM »

Dyno no sooner than 5k???  Uh.  No. 
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Re: 2011.5 FLHTCUSE6
« Reply #221 on: February 28, 2011, 08:08:01 PM »

OK, back to the subject of this thread.  How about that 2011.5 CVO Ultra Classic FLHTCUSE6 in TWILIGHT BLUE & CANDY COBALT?  What a beautiful bike!  I think that I have to have one!!!

Sweet!
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Re: 2011.5 FLHTCUSE6
« Reply #222 on: February 28, 2011, 08:39:50 PM »

That is one snazzy ride!  :)
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Al

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Re: 2011.5 FLHTCUSE6
« Reply #223 on: February 28, 2011, 09:26:23 PM »

I am thinkin' that this may be the new bike for me once they become available used....

 :coolblue:

In the meantime...onward to the West Coast for the Summer!
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Lucky88

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Re: 2011.5 FLHTCUSE6
« Reply #224 on: February 28, 2011, 09:27:23 PM »

Most of the time you are going to look at this bike and just see cobalt blue and black.  As you can see in the photo below, you get a glimmer of metal flake in the tour pack, but unless you're in the sun and close, you see blue and black.

Thanks PHAZE for the pictures. I'm really starting to like the blue. I think I will keep it in the shade.... :huepfenlol2:
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