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[nevadabob]

  folks you don't need the screen or the glass, it adds nothing to the after you change out the baffle. the glass if bunched only causes hot spots on the can with eventual discoloring. mind sounds right, loud and not to loud to hear the tunes.

[HDGearHead]

folks you don't need the screen or the glass, it adds nothing to the after you change out the baffle. the glass if bunched only causes hot spots on the can with eventual discoloring. mind sounds right, loud and not to loud to hear the tunes.

What sounds right to you maybe to loud for me.  We know we can run the mufflers without any packing.  However many of us find the mufflers to be to loud with no packing.

If you're going to reinstall the packing, the screens will keep it from bunching at the end of the muffler and provides the necessary space between the core and packing needed to maximize the torque.

Go back and read Steve's original post.

[RBFB]

I installed the screens today in mine, went pretty easy. Sounded good and made a noticeable difference in performance. I use the Power Vision with Autotune and it started changing the map. Seat of the pants felt more responsive and pulled harder. Worth the money to me. I wouldn't say it was louder, just maybe a tad different, at first I thought it might have been quieter actually. I'm just glad it wasn't louder.

[110tHunDer]

 
Any troubles getting the baffles back out again?  My left one needed some coaxing to get on.

[SHRK2TH]

Any troubles getting the baffles back out again?  My left one needed some coaxing to get on.

Mine were a little tight as well.  Held on to the baffle and used a dead blow hammer lightly around the
perimeter of the muffler, one was a little stubborn.  Worked really well.

[Mr D]

Any troubles getting the baffles back out again?  My left one needed some coaxing to get on.

Use a 1" pipe you can buy at Home Depot or Lowes
Insert to inlet side & hold muffler in upright position with both hands then hammer down to jar loose baffle.
Works every time, thanks to Steve's instruction.

[HDGearHead]

Use a 1" pipe you can buy at Home Depot or Lowes
Insert to inlet side & hold muffler in upright position with both hands then hammer down to jar loose baffle.
Works every time, thanks to Steve's instruction.

That only works with the stock cores.  A different approach is required to remove the Fullsac cores which are open all the way through.
 
I just removed mine to install the screens/sleeves and had to use a rubber mallet around the perimeter of the outlet end of the muffler.

I wrapped the outlet end of the core with a piece of bicycle inner tube to prevent it from being marred up and placed it into the jaws of a large channel lock plier.  I slid the channel lock handles into a vise below the jaws and tightened it (my vice has a perfect area below the jaws to hold the handles that prevents them from moving while I am persuading the muffler can with my mallet.   I then used a block of wood and a rubber mallet to persuade the muffler can to slide off the core.  It took some love but they came out without damaging anything.

The inlet end of my core is pressed over a inlet pipe having a mesh type gasket attached to it.  I think this is what made mine hard to come out.  When I put them in originally and again this time, I had to persuade them in the last .25-.5 inched with a rubber mallet.

I though about drilling a vertical hole through the core just before the plate on the outlet end and installing a bolt across it before putting them back in. This would enable me to knock them out in the future using a dowel just like the OE core.  Since I didn't know how this would impact performance or sound, and In was concerned that it may come loose and rattle I choose not to.

[SmokeyJoe]

So the mufflers need to come off the bike to do this?

[SHRK2TH]

So the mufflers need to come off the bike to do this?

Yep...

[FLSTFI Dave]

Yep...

Why?

I removed my fullsac 2.25 SD baffles while on the bike to find the packing all bunched up at the end.  Removed the packing and put the baffle back in.

So I figure I should be able to once my screens come in put the packing around them, insert it into the cans while on the bike and put baffle back in again.

[SHRK2TH]

Why?

I removed my fullsac 2.25 SD baffles while on the bike to find the packing all bunched up at the end.  Removed the packing and put the baffle back in.

So I figure I should be able to once my screens come in put the packing around them, insert it into the cans while on the bike and put baffle back in again.

Dave,

Guess I wasnt so lucky then.  One of my 2.25 took a little coaxing and patience to get it back out, the other came out with a few taps.
Without the muffler being off, I would have most likely damage the core end trying to pry or pull with vise grips.  My above post as to how I did it worked fine.
You will have no problem

Danny

[Fullsac Performance]

Hard to install and remove cores are not the norm. After you have ground the welds and removed the stock cores, its important to go back in and smooth everything out.
About one in five mufflers will have a small amount of weld burnt through the case at the mounting brackets. Failure to remove this will make the core difficult to install and remove as it binds up the last half inch of install. When the muffler case is free of all burs, lumps and bumps, the cores can typically be slid in and out by hand or with minimal tapping. I swap them out on the dyno tray all the time during testing. Next time you have your cores out, look directly under the welds of the mounting bracket for high spots.

Steve George
Fullsac performance

[HDGearHead]

Steve,  I ground out the welds and throughly smoothed everything out afterwards.  If if flip the core over, I can easily slide it in the muffler past the point the bold goes it.

That's why I believe it's the inlet end thats binding/tight in mine.  I have 2012 mufflers and when I pull the cores and look inside down at the inlet pipe, their is wire mesh type gasket material around the inlet pipe that the core must slip over.  When I slide the core in, I have to tap it in the last quarter inch.

That said, I'll double check the welds under the mounting brackets the next time I have these apart.

I have another 2010 muffler set with 2" cores that I'm going to install the sleeves in this weekend and will make a comparison then.

[2013SERG]

I'm really debating on paying the shipping and having mine done from Steve's place an not rolling the dice on F*king them up...

[Fullsac Performance]

Steve,  I ground out the welds and throughly smoothed everything out afterwards.  If if flip the core over, I can easily slide it in the muffler past the point the bold goes it.

That's why I believe it's the inlet end thats binding/tight in mine.  I have 2012 mufflers and when I pull the cores and look inside down at the inlet pipe, their is wire mesh type gasket material around the inlet pipe that the core must slip over.  When I slide the core in, I have to tap it in the last quarter inch.

That said, I'll double check the welds under the mounting brackets the next time I have these apart.

I have another 2010 muffler set with 2" cores that I'm going to install the sleeves in this weekend and will make a comparison then.

Tapping it in the last quarter inch is pretty normal. Having to really beat on it to go in or out is not. Sounds like you did it right!

Steve