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[CVO2FIXUP]

 What a night mare man!!! I am soooo thankful I have a great shoppe, and a great builder that I deal with. Everything the guy touches just works 100 times better once he is done with it. Love him like a brother for that.  Enjoy the rest of the season.  Oh BTW where are those ripped out threads from?

[Twolanerider]

What a night mare man!!! I am soooo thankful I have a great shoppe, and a great builder that I deal with. Everything the guy touches just works 100 times better once he is done with it. Love him like a brother for that.  Enjoy the rest of the season.  Oh BTW where are those ripped out threads from?

If Duane had what I've seen most commonly it'll be the two holes marked by the arrows in the pictures below.  All the rest of the holes to attach the cam plate are threaded to the face of the engine case.  Those two have alignment dowels in front that shorten the hole (less thread depth).  So they sometimes pull out; especially after repeated use.

After the first "oh chit" shock, however, it's not really a big deal.  The dowels will pull out then knock right back in.  With the dowels out of the way it's a simple chore to put a heli-coil insert in to fix the ruined threads.  Once that's done it's stronger than it ever was when new.

[porthole]

Oh BTW where are those ripped out threads from?

The pictured threads are from the lower left dowel Don posted.
I have a matching set of threads from the front hole of the trans trap door.

[porthole]

After getting it running I put 150 miles on. Changed the oil only ran it, changed the oil and filter and took it for another 100 or so.

Pipes seem louder then I remember. Wrote to V&H and they suggest the wrapping is worn out. Don't remember the pipes being loud before and they offered no additional help.

Packed up for Maggie Valley and did 2000 miles of break in.

I have not yet had a chance to have the EMS re-mapped, and with the history of CS at Revolution with the EMS system I have my doubts. But I have been told it is necessary because of the cam and pipe change.

On the trip:
Bike ran great
Trans shifts better then it ever did. + for Baker support

Noticeable more punch
Pipes get old after several hundred on the highway, or maybe I'm finally getting "if it's to loud - you're to old"
Mileage went from an average of 32 to 37   When I could I was averaging 70-80 depending on the limits.

I don't like being near TT's, so every pass was a throttle exercise.
(Kathy Brian and I were behind a TT on the 5-6 lane  highway near Nashville when a tire exploded -    We felt the concussion, heard the noise and dodged the pieces)


Starts way easier with the manual CR's
But, after the first 1000 miles the CR's started to stick open requiring a blip of the throttle to close. Not always the same one.
No oil leaks

Added a quart in MV and am down a quart again. Previously, even with the custom rings the bike never used a more then a quart in 5000 miles (average oil change with Mobil 1)

At .003" crank run out the S&S gear drives are quiet, just the "whir" I would expect to hear
I went with the S&S roller rockers and arms. Figured it can't hurt and may eliminate the valve wear I had before.

I still have not given it the ultimate dip stick test, as I did not want to have to deal with an oil down while on vacation. But, I gave it a lot of precursory tests and the cap has not moved. Hoping to go back to a stock type cap and get rid of the over-sized oil temp cap that never worked more then 3 months (third one on the bike now)

And the #1 thing I like best is it no longer sounds like a sewing machine between 2200-3000 rpm. The mechanical noise is very much lower.

[porthole]

I kept my 56,000 mile clutch because it was very close to new specs, no regrets.

Aftermarket evilbay alternator stator keeps a steady voltage from idle to 3000 rpm  

Besides the oil consumption, the only other issue was the starter solenoid "starting" to act up on Sunday, just a click several times.

[North Georgia Hawg]

I kept my 56,000 mile clutch because it was very close to new specs, no regrets.

Aftermarket evilbay alternator stator keeps a steady voltage from idle to 3000 rpm  

Besides the oil consumption, the only other issue was the starter solenoid "starting" to act up on Sunday, just a click several times.

Glad your beautiful SEEG is running well, Duane!

On my '95 FLHTP, I started getting that dreaded Click of Death from the starter, too. Rebuilt the starter solenoid, but the only way I ever really got rid of it for good was installing a new Ultima 1.4KW starter from Eastern.

Ken

[hogasm]

Brad and I can rebuild it for you next year in MV. We have it down to a science practicing on my bike

[porthole]

Took the plunger out last night and. Cleaned the contacts. Seemed to help for a few starts but then acted up again.
Noticed one of the contacts on the inside was kind of concave, but only half way around. Could be that.

[Boatman]

Took the plunger out last night and. Cleaned the contacts. Seemed to help for a few starts but the acted up again.
Noticed one of the contacts on the inside was kind of concave, but only half way around. Could be that.

On my 05, the starter would intermittenly make a "loud" click and not crank (even after replacing the ringear/jackshaft gears, battery cables, and chrome starter).

I took the 3 bolt cover off of the starter many times to clean the contacts with no help.  

Finally what fixed it was me backing the jackshaft bolt off about one turn.  I had been previously torqueing it to the inch # spec..  I can't remember if I torqued and then backed off or just slightly under tightened the bolt.  Don't ask me why it fixed my loud starter click/no crank but it did completely..


Hope this works for you.

[porthole]

Bob, not loud at all. Barely noticeable with a full face helmet on.

[Boatman]

Bob, not loud at all. Barely noticeable with a full face helmet on.

Doesn't sound like the same problem then.  Like I said, was at wits end, and older gentleman was helping me and he said let's loosen the jackshaft bolt a little and never had another issue.  Hope cleaning the washer works.  I believe I have a washer if you need it.

[hdbrad03]

Took the plunger out last night and. Cleaned the contacts. Seemed to help for a few starts but then acted up again.
Noticed one of the contacts on the inside was kind of concave, but only half way around. Could be that.

Try this rebuild kit.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/STARTER-SOLENOID-REPAIR-KIT-FOR-91-06-HARLEY-BIG-TWIN-XL-SOLENOID-REBUILD-KIT-/171130241076?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27d8284034&vxp=mtr#ht_2473wt_1146


 


   Brad

[porthole]

Try this rebuild kit.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/STARTER-SOLENOID-REPAIR-KIT-FOR-91-06-HARLEY-BIG-TWIN-XL-SOLENOID-REBUILD-KIT-/171130241076?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27d8284034&vxp=mtr#ht_2473wt_1146

So, before seeing this.............

Just took a ride over to the dealer, beautiful night for a ride too.

Picked up a starter relay and ordered the HD service kit, a bit more then the evil bay item.
Feeling brave, I also ordered a new OEM push in dipstick 

Left the dealer stopped for gas, bike won't start. At least all the other times, multiple pushes on the switch eventually got the solenoid moving.
No dice this time.
No 9/32" socket in the tool kit either (there is now).

Took the cover off with a Leatherman and gave it a "push start".

Don't know if the relay is going to help, but it is only $8.50

[sadunbar]

Slightly off topic, but I've installed a manual starter pushbutton on every Harley I've ever owned.  Saved me a time or two along the way...

[porthole]

Slightly off topic, but I've installed a manual starter pushbutton on every Harley I've ever owned.  Saved me a time or two along the way...

Hogasm told me about them last night, already watching two on evil bay.

Cheap enough I am going to just get one. That way taking the primary - starter apart can wait to the winter. Already lost enough time this year.

Yes Scott - going to BIN right now, thanks.